Type: Trad
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, 1985
Page Views: 190 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

Go up the corner to a ledge that has a good-sized oak tree. Climb to a prominent roof that is just left of the corner (the roof has an obvious crack in it), then traverse left and up to a ledge. Move right a bit, then straight past the overhang (crux). There is a fixed anchor with three pitons about 25 feet higher. I doubt the pitons have been/ever will be, checked or replaced.

By 'Gunks standards there is a bit of loose rock, but the route can be done safely. Decent moves and a bit of exposure at and after the crux.

Location

Forty feet up the hill from Double Crack. Look for the large, obvious dirty corner/chimney.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack

Photos

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SethG  
This isn't a bad route! Nice two-tiered roof problem. Committing and a bit tricky to figure out exactly where to go over the crux roof. There is good gear at the cruxes. Gear is sparse getting off the first ledge past the tree. As of yesterday, the three-pin anchor seemed solid (as far as I could tell), but we backed it up. We left a couple of nylon slings and a locking carabiner on the pins for the descent. Jun 11, 2018