Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: First pitch: Ivan Rezucha, Don Lauber, 1981. Second pitch, Art Gran, Rittner Walling, 1959.
Page Views: 1,260 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

1. Climb for about 20-25 feet to a thin crack. Climb the face at this point (crux) then move straight up to the roof above; there is usually a fixed wire rappel station there. Go right about 8 feet or so to a large ledge and belay. 70 feet, 5.8.

2. Climb up to the large roof system, then traverse out left (crux) to the nose. Keep going left to a two piton rappel station. 80 feet, 5.6. 100 foot rappel.

Intricate face climbing on the first pitch, fun climbing and great exposure on the second.

Location

Follow the trail from the right side of the Boxcar boulder. This meets the cliff near The Spring (P1), a large, well-chalked, inside corner that usually has a small pool at its base.

Lady's Lament is about 90 left of this point, 10 feet right of the start of The Nose - a large corner, capped by a roof, with a crack in the back. Look for a small, right-facing corner about 10 feet up and the thin crack in the face.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
Danny
brooklyn, ny
 
Danny   brooklyn, ny
 
I thought this first pitch was REALLY fun. A little pump made me focus on getting the moves and the pro, but with good rests and good pro I wouldn't call this 5.8.

In the Trapps App this route is called Boldina and goes at 7-, which is closer to how it felt, I thought.

The second pitch is your standard pumpy Gunks roof, lots of thug jugs. Fun but not incredibly unique.

After I had rounded the corner, I found the two piton anchor to the left occupied by climbers on Filipina/The Nose. I kept climbing upwards to a tree and found a sling anchor (brown webbing, two rap rings) that I was able to reach the ground from using a 70 meter rope.

DO the first pitch! It's short and very fun. May 22, 2017