Type: Trad
FA: FFA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 2,671 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

There are two starts.

1a. The original start. Climb the crack just left of Bold-Ville, passing a small corner and a small overhang. Go up another 15-20 feet or so, then diagonal left across the face aiming for a small tree. It is probably best to belay there. 5.7.

1b. The Nose variation. Climb the large inside corner further left; exit right, then up the dihedral to the same tree mentioned above. 5.6.

2. Move up and left a bit, then follow a shallow dihedral past a fixed pin to a decent stance under a large roof. At that point there is another fixed pin in a short slab to the right. Traverse right about 6-8 feet to good holds, then go past the overhang (crux). Twenty-five feet up and left there is a rappel anchor with two good angle pitons. 100 foot rappel.

This can be done (and often is) as a single pitch.

Location

Take the trail from the right side of the Boxcar boulder. This deposits you near The Spring (P1), a large, well-chalked inside corner that usually has a small pool below it.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

SethG  
I climbed The Nose/Fillipina. The initial Nose dihedral is a little tough for 5.6, and fun. The rest of the way up to the roof is a bit awkward. The final roof problem is awesome. I only saw one pin, on the face before the stance at the roof. Jul 1, 2011
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
The Nose start makes a fantastic link up with Fillipina.

The Williams guide notes a worthy variation: Where the Nose jogs left, head right up the bulge, with a crack and a well-chalked chicken head, rather than the open book to the right. It's more direct and maybe 5.8 G (slightly height dependent). This should probably be done as a single pitch. Also, the rap is close with a 60 meter rope -- both ends of my rope were about 8 inches off the ground before my partner rappelled. Jun 25, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
I climbed this route a few weeks ago. By mistake, I continued up and right on the first pitch to the comfortable ledge(just right of an uncomfortable fixed anchor) and below P2 of Bold-ville. We decided to make a traverse left, aiming for the piton below the P2 crux of Fillipina. The traverse had some chalk on it but ended up being much more difficult than expected. I can't find any info on this traverse in either of my guidebooks. Does anyone know if this is part of another route? Oct 30, 2012
Dana Bartlett
CO
  5.9
Dana Bartlett   CO
  5.9
You might have done the crux of Lady's Lament. Apr 6, 2013
Danny
brooklyn, ny
 
Danny   brooklyn, ny
 
I did this route sunday, and now it's a new favorite. The starting dihedral feature in the Nose is easy and fun. After that comes a slightly overhanging little boulder problem through cool holds. It feels like 5.8/5.9 and was very fun. The final roof section is airy, big, and super fun. After extending the fixed anchor with shoulder length slings, I was able to set up a TR with a 60m, with a few feet to spare. Do this route! Jun 26, 2018