Type: Trad
FA: FFA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 2,841 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

There are two starts.

1a. The original start. Climb the crack just left of Bold-Ville, passing a small corner and a small overhang. Go up another 15-20 feet or so, then diagonal left across the face aiming for a small tree. It is probably best to belay there. 5.7.

1b. The Nose variation. Climb the large inside corner further left; exit right, then up the dihedral to the same tree mentioned above. 5.6.

2. Move up and left a bit, then follow a shallow dihedral past a fixed pin to a decent stance under a large roof. At that point there is another fixed pin in a short slab to the right. Traverse right about 6-8 feet to good holds, then go past the overhang (crux). Twenty-five feet up and left there is a rappel anchor with two good angle pitons. 100 foot rappel.

This can be done (and often is) as a single pitch.

Location

Take the trail from the right side of the Boxcar boulder. This deposits you near The Spring (P1), a large, well-chalked inside corner that usually has a small pool below it.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos