Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Man's Land T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prick, The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Scary Area T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Tiers of Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ventre de Boeuf T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wrath of the Lamb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A5 R
Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Goldner, Bill Yates 1961
Page Views: 3,657 total · 38/month
Shared By: losbill on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details

Description

The first pitch has consistently good climbing. The next two pitches are just okay.

Pitch 1 - Pass the triangular roof on right (first crux). Angle up left to an overhang about 15 feet left of the obvious pedestal above. Do a pumpy hand traverse right for 10 feet (second crux), then head up on jugs to a belay perch on top of the pedestal. 100 feet (5.7)

Pitch 2 - Traverse left under the overhang until you're able to pass left of it. Aim for two clean patches of white rock split by a crack, above and slightly to the left. Belay amongst vegetation on GTL or the next ledge up, 55 to 70 feet. (5.5)

Pitch 3 - Take it 60 feet to the trees, up the obvious crack through clean white rock, featuring a few 5.7 moves.

Rappel to climber's right. From the GT ledge, a rap-station tree with slings just to climber's right of Shit Creek will get you to the bolted station above P1 of Blistered Toe in a single rope. From the clifftop, rap over Blistered Toe to the bolts, then to the ground.

Location

About a 20 minute walk from the Uberfall. Take the trail immediately after the Boxcar Boulder. Start on a local rise in the land, 50 feet right of The Spring (P1) (or 25' left of Blistered Toe) beneath a crack with a triangular roof overhead about 50 feet up.

Protection

Regular Gunks rack

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
The hand traverse on P1 will get your undivided attention. The feet are negligible. Hope you have some pull-up strength. The alleged crux on P3 may be "technically" more difficult but nowhere near as scary.

We could not find the rapp station over Blistered Toe. It probably requires a slippery downclimb to a lower ledge. We found a rapp tree further right over Yellow Crack (3 sketchy rapps w/ 60m). You might try looking left instead. Oct 27, 2013
ebmudder
Bronx, NY
ebmudder   Bronx, NY
The rap station above Blistered indeed seems to be gone. After searching for it we walked climber's left about 50' instead and left an orange sling and rap ring above Spring (I think) and rapped down to the red slings 50'. Sep 30, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Rock was rather suspect after the traverse on P1. Very interesting, challenging climbing for a 6. It's fun, but, not so sure about rock quality near the top of P1 Oct 23, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
I didn't climb the upper pitches but P1 has great climbing. The rap anchor atop P1 consists of two disgusting pitons, a nut, a small hex, and two tricams. The cord equalizing said pieces was in atrocious condition and was replaced by my partner on 10/31/15. Take care near the top of the pitch, as the huge pillar of rock just right of the climbing contains many precarious death blocks. Nov 2, 2015
dwight l
Brooklyn, NY
dwight l   Brooklyn, NY
Be careful when lowering/rapping from the fixed anchor at the end of P1. There are a lot of big, loose rocks on the ledges below that can easily be tipped and fall! Jul 2, 2018

More About Shit Creek

Printer-Friendly