Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Goldner, Bill Yates 1961
Page Views: 3,960 total · 37/month
Shared By: losbill on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first pitch has consistently good climbing. The next two pitches are just okay.

Pitch 1 - Pass the triangular roof on right (first crux). Angle up left to an overhang about 15 feet left of the obvious pedestal above. Do a pumpy hand traverse right for 10 feet (second crux), then head up on jugs to a belay perch on top of the pedestal. 100 feet (5.7)

Pitch 2 - Traverse left under the overhang until you're able to pass left of it. Aim for two clean patches of white rock split by a crack, above and slightly to the left. Belay amongst vegetation on GTL or the next ledge up, 55 to 70 feet. (5.5)

Pitch 3 - Take it 60 feet to the trees, up the obvious crack through clean white rock, featuring a few 5.7 moves.

Rappel to climber's right. From the GT ledge, a rap-station tree with slings just to climber's right of Shit Creek will get you to the bolted station above P1 of Blistered Toe in a single rope. From the clifftop, rap over Blistered Toe to the bolts, then to the ground.

Location

About a 20 minute walk from the Uberfall. Take the trail immediately after the Boxcar Boulder. Start on a local rise in the land, 50 feet right of The Spring (P1) (or 25' left of Blistered Toe) beneath a crack with a triangular roof overhead about 50 feet up.

Protection

Regular Gunks rack

Photos