Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Goldner, Bill Yates 1961
Page Views: 3,786 total · 37/month
Shared By: losbill on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch has consistently good climbing. The next two pitches are just okay.

Pitch 1 - Pass the triangular roof on right (first crux). Angle up left to an overhang about 15 feet left of the obvious pedestal above. Do a pumpy hand traverse right for 10 feet (second crux), then head up on jugs to a belay perch on top of the pedestal. 100 feet (5.7)

Pitch 2 - Traverse left under the overhang until you're able to pass left of it. Aim for two clean patches of white rock split by a crack, above and slightly to the left. Belay amongst vegetation on GTL or the next ledge up, 55 to 70 feet. (5.5)

Pitch 3 - Take it 60 feet to the trees, up the obvious crack through clean white rock, featuring a few 5.7 moves.

Rappel to climber's right. From the GT ledge, a rap-station tree with slings just to climber's right of Shit Creek will get you to the bolted station above P1 of Blistered Toe in a single rope. From the clifftop, rap over Blistered Toe to the bolts, then to the ground.

Location

About a 20 minute walk from the Uberfall. Take the trail immediately after the Boxcar Boulder. Start on a local rise in the land, 50 feet right of The Spring (P1) (or 25' left of Blistered Toe) beneath a crack with a triangular roof overhead about 50 feet up.

Protection

Regular Gunks rack

Photos

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
The hand traverse on P1 will get your undivided attention. The feet are negligible. Hope you have some pull-up strength. The alleged crux on P3 may be "technically" more difficult but nowhere near as scary.

We could not find the rapp station over Blistered Toe. It probably requires a slippery downclimb to a lower ledge. We found a rapp tree further right over Yellow Crack (3 sketchy rapps w/ 60m). You might try looking left instead. Oct 27, 2013
ebmudder
Bronx, NY
ebmudder   Bronx, NY
The rap station above Blistered indeed seems to be gone. After searching for it we walked climber's left about 50' instead and left an orange sling and rap ring above Spring (I think) and rapped down to the red slings 50'. Sep 30, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Rock was rather suspect after the traverse on P1. Very interesting, challenging climbing for a 6. It's fun, but, not so sure about rock quality near the top of P1 Oct 23, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
I didn't climb the upper pitches but P1 has great climbing. The rap anchor atop P1 consists of two disgusting pitons, a nut, a small hex, and two tricams. The cord equalizing said pieces was in atrocious condition and was replaced by my partner on 10/31/15. Take care near the top of the pitch, as the huge pillar of rock just right of the climbing contains many precarious death blocks. Nov 2, 2015
dwight l
Brooklyn, NY
dwight l   Brooklyn, NY
Be careful when lowering/rapping from the fixed anchor at the end of P1. There are a lot of big, loose rocks on the ledges below that can easily be tipped and fall! Jul 2, 2018