Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and Lito Tejada-Flores
Page Views: 1,385 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 12, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

If it weren't for the PG-R section, this would be a popular, classic route! It's long, pumpy, and will hold your attention the whole way up. The lower section is particularly interesting, with un-Gunks-like holds above small gear. On a busy day this climb is usually free!

Head up a few feet until you can step left and join the obvious crack. Climb straight up this, exiting right at the top at a ledge with a block. Step left onto the block, below a right-facing corner. Make the crucial blue Camalot placement that protects the PG-R section. Climb up into the corner to its top and pull the overhang to the left. Head straight up into a V-shaped open book. From the top of the book, head up, either to the Double Crack belay tree or straight to the GT. Holy pump, Batman!

Location

30 feet uphill from Double Crack, on the same wall. Start at some greenish right-facing flakes just right of the obvious crack.

Protection

Standard rack with some micronut/cams and a necessary blue camalot sized piece. A slightly larger unit may be helpful.

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