Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and Lito Tejada-Flores
Page Views: 1,300 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 12, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

If it weren't for the PG-R section, this would be a popular, classic route! It's long, pumpy, and will hold your attention the whole way up. The lower section is particularly interesting, with un-Gunks-like holds above small gear. On a busy day this climb is usually free!

Head up a few feet until you can step left and join the obvious crack. Climb straight up this, exiting right at the top at a ledge with a block. Step left onto the block, below a right-facing corner. Make the crucial blue Camalot placement that protects the PG-R section. Climb up into the corner to its top and pull the overhang to the left. Head straight up into a V-shaped open book. From the top of the book, head up, either to the Double Crack belay tree or straight to the GT. Holy pump, Batman!

Location

30 feet uphill from Double Crack, on the same wall. Start at some greenish right-facing flakes just right of the obvious crack.

Protection

Standard rack with some micronut/cams and a necessary blue camalot sized piece. A slightly larger unit may be helpful.

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lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
This climb has been on my "to do" list for years. Was checking it out from The Nose last week and the upper half looked like it was covered in dense crispy brown lichen. Hope I was investigating the wrong climb. Anyone been there in the past few years? Condition report? Aug 21, 2011
stredna
PA
stredna   PA
The route is fantastic! bring some small wires and its easily PG. Although subjective, I believe it is certainly not a gunks 10. A little pumpy but with good rests - get on it! Jun 17, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.9+ PG13
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.9+ PG13
Awesome route, but there is presently an enormous wasps nest that is very active and hard to avoid. Aug 12, 2017
Systematic
  5.9+ PG13
Systematic  
  5.9+ PG13
Wasp nest on the ledge with the giant block is not active as of 5/5/18. Interesting route that feels a bit wild compared to many surrounding trapps routes. I would maintain the PG13/R rating because of several giant detached blocks. May 7, 2018