Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha & Don Lauber, 9/9/1984
Page Views: 238 total · 16/month
Shared By: Troy McCormick on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Tweak or Freak is a nice 5.10 that ascends the left side of the large overhang of which Shit Creek passes on the right.

While the original start wandered up the face between Oblique Tweak and Shit Creek, most will just start on Oblique Tweak as it is the more direct and better protected line.
Climb the chimney up to the flake. Choose your own adventure to get past this, then head up into the right facing corner below the large overhang. Move out left and pull the roof above at the crack. Once established above the roof wander up and right to connect with Shit Creek just before the pumpy hand traverse. Continue up to the shared anchor atop the stacked block pedestal. Above the roof the rock quality deteriorates as you ascend. Climb with care.

Location

Approximately twenty feet to the right of The Spring. Locate the start of Oblique Tweak, a small chimney below the left side of a large overhang fifty feet up.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed anchor.

Photos

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Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
a fixed nut protects the hard roof moves Aug 6, 2018
Danny
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
I enjoyed this route, had to come back for the redpoint as i found the roof problem to be sequency and tough for me. it's a nice well protected airy boulder problem. add in the 5.8+ oblique tweak start (kinda tough!) and the 5.7 shit creek steep finish, i think this is a nice link-up and worth doing when at the seasons wall. Oct 11, 2018