Type: Trad, 755 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1974, Joe and Betsy Herbst, Randal Grandstaff, Matt McMackin
Page Views: 22,342 total · 112/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2004 with improvements by Oliver
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Approach as for Tunnel Vision. From the base of TV, work right about 100' to an alcove with a pine tree.

P1: (140', 5.5) Climb up a ways toward the massive cleft above (Healy's Haunted House) but then swing left onto a well featured face. Climb up through an easy bulge and belay on ledges at the base of a prominant off-width that splits the yellow face above. This crack is easily seen from the ground as you approach.

P2: (140', 5.6) The crack soon turns into an offwidth in relatively low angled rock. The moves are pretty easy if you use wide crack technique (heel-toe time!) but this section is fairly sustained. Thin flakes in the side of the crack offer somewhat insecure pro. A #5 Camalot could probably walk up this whole section. Belay at a ledge where the crack thins down again.

P3: (110', 5.5) Climb up the crack and work left before it ends, moving to an obvious crack system coming down from the large roof above. Belay in ledges.

P4: (110', 5.5) Continue up to an area of bushes in the crack. About 20' of easy simulclimbing combines this with the previous pitch.

P5: (180', 5.7) Work up the widening crack to the roof using the slab on the left side. The roof looks improbable but by working in (for pro) and out (for good holds) you can surmount the roof without too much effort. Continue up the crack / chimney into a big alcove and belay.

P6: (150', 5.4) Climb up another 30' or so then avoid the wide crack above (a 5.8 finish) by traversing left on a ledge system to easier ground and the top.

P5 is classic Vegas climbing: an improbable line through a big overhang that looks far harder than it is. You'll need a few big cams (or hexes) to feel comfy on this pitch. We didn't have much big stuff (#2, #3, #3.5 camalot) but the pro seemed adaquate. Just use little stuff whenever possible. The easy part of the chimney below the belay was runout but not scary.

This route was a lot more fun than Tunnel Vision. Plus less waiting in line.

[Changed the route length to 755' per Handren, though estimated pitch lengths and here don't exactly add up. -ed.]

Protection

Standard Vegas rack with some extra big nuts. A #5 Camalot would probably make pitch 2 much more secure.

Photos