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5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 341
votes
Routes in Angel Food Wall
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Domestic Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Glass Elevator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Healy's Haunted House T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sandy Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tele-vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tunnel vision / stilgar variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 755 ft (229 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | 1974, Joe and Betsy Herbst, Randal Grandstaff, Matt McMackin |
| Page Views: | 28,478 total · 123/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Mar 11, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Approach as for Tunnel Vision. From the base of TV, work right about 100' to an alcove with a pine tree.
P1: (140', 5.5) Climb up a ways toward the massive cleft above (Healy's Haunted House) but then swing left onto a well featured face. Climb up through an easy bulge and belay on ledges at the base of a prominent off-width that splits the yellow face above. This crack is easily seen from the ground as you approach.
P2: (140', 5.6) The crack soon turns into an offwidth in relatively low angled rock. The moves are pretty easy if you use wide crack technique (heel-toe time!) but this section is fairly sustained. Thin flakes in the side of the crack offer somewhat insecure pro. A #5 Camalot could probably walk up this whole section. Belay at a ledge where the crack thins down again.
P3: (110', 5.5) Climb up the crack and work left before it ends, moving to an obvious crack system coming down from the large roof above. Belay in ledges.
P4: (110', 5.5) Continue up to an area of bushes in the crack. About 20' of easy simulclimbing combines this with the previous pitch.
P5: (180', 5.7 PG-13) Work up the widening crack to the roof using the slab on the left side. The roof looks improbable but by working in (for pro) and out (for good holds) you can surmount the roof without too much effort. Continue up the runout crack / chimney into a big alcove and belay.
P6: (150', 5.4) Climb up another 30' or so then avoid the wide crack above (a 5.8 finish) by traversing left on a ledge system to easier ground and the top.
P5 is classic Vegas climbing: an improbable line through a big overhang that looks far harder than it is. You'll need a few big cams (or hexes) to feel comfy on this pitch. We didn't have much big stuff (#2, #3, #3.5 camalot) but the pro seemed adaquate. Just use little stuff whenever possible. The easy part of the chimney below the belay was runout but not scary.
This route was a lot more fun than Tunnel Vision. Plus less waiting in line.
[Changed the route length to 755' per Handren, though estimated pitch lengths and here don't exactly add up. -ed.]
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