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Routes in Angel Food Wall

Beheaded Burro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eigerwand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fleeting Boldness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Foolish Man, Foolish Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobies for Gumbies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Healy's Haunted House T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Killin' Time T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Lean Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
On the prowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purblind Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rebel Within T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy Hole T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tele-vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tunnel Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1974, Joe and Betsy Herbst, Randal Grandstaff, Matt McMackin
Page Views: 15,831 total, 94/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Approach as for Tunnel Vision. From the base of TV, work right about 100' to an alcove with a pine tree.

P1: (140', 5.5) Climb up a ways toward the massive cleft above (Healy's Haunted House) but then swing left onto a well featured face. Climb up through an easy bulge and belay on ledges at the base of a prominant off-width that splits the yellow face above. This crack is easily seen from the ground as you approach.

P2: (140', 5.6) The crack soon turns into an offwidth in relatively low angled rock. The moves are pretty easy if you use wide crack technique (heel-toe time!) but this section is fairly sustained. Thin flakes in the side of the crack offer somewhat insecure pro. A #5 Camalot could probably walk up this whole section. Belay at a ledge where the crack thins down again.

P3: (110', 5.5) Climb up the crack and work left before it ends, moving to an obvious crack system coming down from the large roof above. Belay in ledges.

P4: (110', 5.5) Continue up to an area of bushes in the crack. About 20' of easy simulclimbing combines this with the previous pitch.

P5: (180', 5.7) Work up the widening crack to the roof using the slab on the left side. The roof looks improbable but by working in (for pro) and out (for good holds) you can surmount the roof without too much effort. Continue up the crack / chimney into a big alcove and belay.

P6: (150', 5.4) Climb up another 30' or so then avoid the wide crack above (a 5.8 finish) by traversing left on a ledge system to easier ground and the top.

P5 is classic Vegas climbing: an improbable line through a big overhang that looks far harder than it is. You'll need a few big cams (or hexes) to feel comfy on this pitch. We didn't have much big stuff (#2, #3, #3.5 camalot) but the pro seemed adaquate. Just use little stuff whenever possible. The easy part of the chimney below the belay was runout but not scary.

This route was a lot more fun than Tunnel Vision. Plus less waiting in line.

Protection

Standard Vegas rack with some extra big nuts. A #5 Camalot would probably make pitch 2 much more secure.
Matthew Brode
  5.7
Matthew Brode  
  5.7
Classic fun RR climb that appears to not get the traffic as tunnel vision does. P5's roof/chimney combo looks pretty gruesome from the belay ledge but shows its true colors once in it. I stayed to the right leading up to the roof while using my back against the large crack. Party in front of us traced the thinner crack that spread left and then back right to the roof. I think they got pretty bad drag from this. Place a 5 inside and you're good to go for some exposure when you come out of the chimney! Nov 13, 2017
Climbed this route on October 8 with David Wieder. We took a 70m cord and easily linked pitches 2+3 and 4+5 with no rope management issues, belaying under the roof.

Pitch 2, although wide, is low-angle and positive and goes on about two pieces of gear--a big cam and a small nut.

Although it's intimidating from below, once you're into it the roof pitch slowly reveals itself as much easier than it initially seems. Don't bother hauling a #6 up this route if you even have one; there's really no need and barely any use for it. If you bring a #5 you'll use it more than once. In default of that, just a wingspan away from the obvious big cam placement at the bottom of this chimney you'll find a horizontal crack on the right wall that takes a #.4.

A 20-liter pack remained on my back and was only a momentary obstruction.

Although effortful--it is a chimney, after all--you'll find that if you can keep your mind from getting distracted by worry about the runout and focus on your movements instead, this section actually has ample holds and goes with a simple and natural flow. By climbing more mindfully here, you're also more likely to remain attentive to the several available points of natural protection (knobs and chicken heads). I'm surprised that no one else has mentioned these. Oct 10, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.7 PG13
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.7 PG13
As more recently stated, flakes on P2 are absolute bullshit for pro. Yes the climbing is easy here though.

I followed up to the roof in approach shoes (highly recommended, much more comfy on the sharply upturned huge holds than rock shoes). I led the chimney and was happy to place a #5 in the roof. Other options for gear were low enough that you're basically soloing over a slab as you get into it. I pretty much stayed in the crack the whole way, none of the face holds really inspired confidence. The rock is so featured that jamming was actually pretty annoying. Great practice in offwidth technique though. Really didn't find much pro on this pitch. Note if you lead it from the tree a 60m is going to be VERY stretched to get to the belay alcove, your partner may simul easy slab. That tree makes a great comfy belay stance though.

I took the 7ish crack out right on the finish. This was a really fun ending pitch.

It's a decent route overall, but felt like a bunch of low to mid 5th scrambling with some wide crack thrown in. I enjoyed purblind more for it's wider variety. Mar 28, 2017
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Serious and run out. The hollowness of the flake on the right side of pitch 2 precludes any solid placements regardless of size. And NO, you cannot walk a #5 up the crack and neither will you find any good small placements within that crack as others have erroneously stated.
The roof pitch is quite wild for the grade! If you're comfortable on 5.7 R/X terrain, I's say this is a very good route to do. Nov 10, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
As of 11/8/16 the descent was well cairned and there were two rappels (for which I was grateful...the down climbing looked gnarly). I felt that a #6 would be very useful on both wide pitches. Although the climbing was certainly 5.7 and below, the fall consequences could be large given the runouts.

I would not recommend this climb for a budding 5.7 leader unless you are very comfortable with wide cracks and serious runouts. Nov 9, 2016
This climb was fun but more committing than we realized. Definitely not a gimme. I recommend having at least a BD #4 & #5. The tight chimney pitch (P4 I think) is burly and awkward (trail your pack!). The belay at the end of the it, before the roof is tight and uncomfortable. The roof is exhilarating and definitely a bit run-out at times. The last pitch, while easy, starts with a solid 20 feet of run out as you finish the roof and start to traverse left across easy but exposed ledges. At the start the traverse, I fit a #4 in horizontally.

As of 9/30, the carins along the decent were prominent and intact. Oct 15, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.7
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Really fun moderate cruise. The featured cracks and impressive chimney are very entertaining. Definitely continue up the handcrack roof after the chimney pitch for some extra fun. Once you stem up to the roof, pulling the roof is quite simple. The rock quality was surprisingly good on this route. Classic at the grade. Jan 5, 2016
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.6 R
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.6 R
Fantastic route and waaaay better than Tunnel Vision. Super fun! Goes casually in 4 pitches per the beta up-thread. Suggest single rack to #5 camalot.

Probably would not suggest this for the budding 5.7 leader as you can tend to run the rope for a while, but a worthy cruise with some unique situations encountered. Sep 3, 2015
Chase D  
I agree with other comments that a #5 and #6 cam would be very useful on this route. Largest I carried was a #4 and I used it several times. The P2 offwidth is easy enough that running it out didn't feel scary...but the chimney/roof pitch is another story. Without a #5 or #6 cam you will have a serious run out. A fall here would be nasty.

To me, the crux moves in the roof and the alcoves above the roof felt like 5.8+ climbing (typical Joe Herbst 5.7). Also, there are no bolted belay stations so study the route to avoid route-finding issues.

All that being said, I would recommend avoiding this route if you are not comfortable leading 5.8 and 5.9 trad. If you are comfortable at that grade, you will highly enjoy this route! Aug 3, 2015
With shade in the early afternoon, this is a nice summer route. The predicted high for the area was 101F, but after sweating up the red Chinle band, a little chillin' in the shade at the base got us comfortable, and the route had positively lovely temps. Ice on the approach is recommended, however. Jul 4, 2015
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
  5.7 R
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
  5.7 R
After climbing this and reviewing all the comments, I feel like I must have missed some placements in the roof/chimney pitch, but not sure how unless you squeeze yourself DEEP into the chimney, then back out (I wouldn't consider that very fun). I had a #4 and a #5 and found I could not place them until quite a ways past what I thought was the crux. (I used a #3 in a squared-off "hole" just below the crux). Consequently I was entirely uncomfortable with the runout.

I am a 5'4" female leader with a lot of trad experience at this grade and found that pitch super scary. I admit that I struggle on chimneys which surely contributed to my discomfort.

If you are a 5.7/8 leader and don't embrace chimneys and run outs, I suggest you either not lead the 5th pitch or if you do take a #5 AND a #6 if you have it. Breathe deep and go until the difficulty eases up well above the roof. Apr 22, 2015
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
We climbed it in 4 pitches with a 70m. No simulclimbing. ~220 feet to the base of p3. ~225 feet to the tree. ~70 feet to right below the chimney, then ~230 to the top. A #6 is really the only piece that will protect the second half of the offwidth on pitch 2. The flakes in the crack are bunk. A number 5 or 4 perhaps in the crux roof makes the moves out of the chimney onto the face really chill. The last two pitches are awesome! Great route! Nov 26, 2014
Climb To Safety
california
  5.7 PG13
Climb To Safety   california
  5.7 PG13
Climbed this with a 3-man team on 4-25-2014. Black clouds were rolling in and the wind was blowing, but it never got too cold, perfect weather!

The Jerry Handren guidebook calls this a 7-pitch climb. We combined pitches 3 and 4, to make it a 6 pitch climb. Very fun climb from beginning to end. I thought the roof pitch was a bit run out, as we only brought along 1 #4 camalot, and I used it very early. Apparently there are several good places for pro, but I failed to see them on lead.

The walk down the gully, back to the base of climb is kind of long, I recommend you bring your approach shoes for the descent. Apr 27, 2014
Ryan-G Gittins
San Diego
 
Ryan-G Gittins   San Diego
 
Interesting route...two wide and run out pitches that are heads-up and scrambling in between...doesn't make for a complete or congruent experience. Kind of like an alpine route, with less pro. The 5.8 finish is one of the better pitches and protects with wide gear fine...Its also significantly easier, psychologically and technically, than the 5.7 crux pitches.

The chimney is wild, and will likely scare the shit out of any 5.7 leader - a fall would be huge and ugly..I almost took my head off when my helmet jammed on a short slip while on second. It is awesome though..but I imagine you'll want to be a solid 9 leader to enjoy. Feb 18, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
done in 4 pitches with a 70, with morning sun much of the way. did P1 as is, linked P2 and P3, linked P4 and P5 to base of big roof, then up and over big roof stretching rope via 5.8 finish to the top. both the huge roof and P2 wide crack are super juggy fun May 12, 2013
NickinCO
colorado
  5.6
NickinCO   colorado
  5.6
did this today with nothing bigger than a 4" C4. I'm no offwidth climber and i didnt think it was bad. linked p 3/4 with a 70m and did the 5.8 finish. fun route! pitch 2 was pretty runout but it was super easy. definitely do the 5.8 finish too. similar to the "crux" pitch but better Mar 5, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I brought a #5 and thought it was worthwhile for a couple placements, including the roof. I also brought a #4 but I never used it except on the 5.8 variation finish.

If you want to be able to walk a cam up part of the wide crack on p2, you should bring a #6. The #5 is much too small and the flakes people talk about using are psychological pro options only. They're not just questionable, they're laughable. But if you're confident well above 5.7, it is not a big deal to run this section out.

Maybe it was just me, but I found I had to work hard to make bomber belay stations on this route. Lots of less-than-great rock, weird, flaring, and irregular cracks that rejected awesome cam and nut placements, etc. Excellent mental re-training for the climber accustomed to slammer granite!

The scary looking 5.8 finish yielded some of the most fun moves on the route. The roof protects well. I thought the move was closer to 5.8+ than 5.7+, but perhaps this was a mental reaction to the footholds -- which consist of flexy, sandy flakes and smears (the hand jams are solid, however). You get a couple more bomber pieces above and then the climbing is steep but easy on delicate terrain with less/no pro. However, it does take the 5 again if you so wish.

A very nice route.


Nov 17, 2011
Nathan Petrosian
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Nathan Petrosian   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Fun route. didn't use the #5 on the roof crux but it was used on the pitch before that. Nice to link pitches with the 70m. Nov 1, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Peter- on the descent where you encountered a choice to rappel, if you go over the saddle to the skiers right, you'll find a casual 3rd class downclimb. Alot of people miss this, which is why that rap station appears now and then. May 25, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
This is a really fun route, but probably not a good choice for the aspiring 5.7/8 leader. There are significant runouts on wide cracks (the small gear on the P.2 offwidth is behind some pretty suspicious flakes with the first solid piece about 40' up). The upper chimney pitch is fabulous (you can easily walk up a #4). We did the 5.8 direct finish, which, although a bit sandy and scrappy, was really fun. To get to the start of the route, scramble up and right in the alcove toward the start of Purblind Pillar (30'), then traverse left on easy ledges to an obvious platform with a small (3" diameter) tree. The descent isn't long by RR standards, but there is a fair bit of scrambling verging on 4th class. At one point there is a nasty 20-foot descent down through a tunnel topped with loose blocks (skier's right), which can be avoided by a short rappel off some fixed slings on the left (this is the only spot where we felt a rappel might be prudent). May 25, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
Great route! I also think this is the best route on the wall.

The start can be tricky to locate. Following SuperTopo, we scrambled up into Healy's Haunted House, a wide dark chimney. Once you locate this, look for a car-sized block on the left side of the base of this chimney. This block is visible in the beta photo for the first pitch (I think). We started the pitch by stepping left off this block and onto the face above. You can get to the block easily unroped from the usual start (beta photo location) by heading NW up a short gully and traversing back at its level. [If you don't traverse back, going straight another 50 feet NW will take you to the start of Purblind Pillar.]

We were nervous about pitch 2 and had a #5 Camalot, but there is actually reasonable gear to be found on this crack, although perhaps in somewhat questionable flakes. The real runout is to be found on the roof pitch 5. True, the 20 foot runout is after the crux but it is definitely not for the timid, a #5 Camalot doesn't help for this runout (although we found it useful below, as well as on pitch 2).

We did the route in 4 pitches with a 60m rope. As mentioned, this involves some simulclimbing (combining 1 & 2, and 3 & 4). Apr 20, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Recently (Dec 2010), someone added three bolts to this route- two at the top of the first pitch, and one on the second for protection. On 1/11/11, I went up Group Therapy to have a look at the bolts and found that they had been removed, with the holes patched.

For those who may have added these bolts: Please, do not add bolts to routes in Red Rock- the locals here frown upon adding hardware to routes that have been done safely for decades without bolts. Also, it is currently illegal to place new bolts in the wilderness and doing so jeopardizes negotiations with the BLM to allow new bolting.

For more information on this, please see:
mountainproject.com/v/nevad… Jan 12, 2011
Unboundquark  
 
I climbed this route yesterday with Larry DeAngelo. I led P 1,2,4,5,7 (5.8 variation). Weather was in the high 70s with a 30mph gusting to 50 winds from the Southwest. Angel Food Wall faces NE. The howling winds we encountered in the parking lot were non-existent once we were on the rock. It was mostly calm for us, with a raren strong breeze.

On this wall I've also climbed Tunnel Vision and Purblind Pillar. They're all great routes but Group Therapy is my favorite out of the bunch so far.

The gear I took was 1 set of wires, 1 set of cams up to 1", 2 cams 2"-4", and one 5" or 6" cam. The selection I brought felt just about right. I ran it out a little on some of the easier climbing, but generally the pro was very good. We placed the 5" cam a total of 4 times.

We had a single 60m rope with us and were linked P1 & P2 with a little bit of simulclimbing. P4 & P5 linked without any issues too.

I took the 5.8 variation for the final pitch. I would put the single harder move maybe at 5.7+, but I didn't really see it being that much more difficult than others on the route.

Overall this was a really fun route with a fun mix of cracks, face, a squeeze through a little chimney section, and some fun off-widths.

-Glenn Mar 31, 2010
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
A few thoughts on the above comments:

The climb is probably a little more than 100 ft. right of Tunnel Vision. Photo #6 above helped us find the start with no problem.
We took a #5 Camalot and used it enough (2 or 3 times) that we thought it was worth towing along.
The 2nd pitch is easily stemmed; no heel-tow OW technique needed.
As mentioned above, with a 70 meter rope pitches 3 and 4 can be linked.
We did the route Nov. 2 and had sun on the first few pitches of the climb till about 10:00 a.m.
The right crack finish is highly recommended and definately has a 5.8 move at the start of the crack.
I thought this was a great route. Different climbing (wide cracks) than Purblind Pillar but equal quality to make it a tie for the best route on Angel Food Wall. Nov 5, 2009
It's a great route. If you don't like run out climbs than bring a few large cams. Be sure to give your self plenty of time to climb it, as there are no bolted rappels so you have to topout and hike down. Oct 18, 2009
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
 
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
 
This was a fun line... I did the 5.8 finish and was disappointed to see the graffiti there! Why would anyone think it is OK to write "no" with an arrow on the rock?!

I was worried at first that the only reason someone would deface the rock like that was that there was some sort of death block ready to come loose and kill climbers. I found the climbing to be normal 5.8 climbing with nothing particularly loose and decent protection. There is no excuse for the graffiti on the 5.8 finish! Aug 13, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
i just did this route again for the first time in years and its been far too long since i've done it- what a great little route!

i actually lugged up the #5 C4 and used it once- at the roof crux, which was nice to have, although if you're strong and solid on the wide, gear to the #4 C4 is probably plenty, just be prepared to run it through the crux.

on another note- i did the 5.8 finish as described in the handren guide (the right hand of the two cracks above the final belay), and i would say its more like 5.7 and is the natural finish to the route. the crack on the left looked much harder (nice job, john!)- i passed on it because it looked kinda rotten and a little harder than 5.8, but i guess i was mistaken.

finally for those considering this route- its a solid step up from Tunnelvision in terms of gear placement and anchoring techniques, and its definitely more run out than tunnelvision, although if you have a #5, its not dangerously so. Jun 14, 2009
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
  5.7
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
  5.7
bring a #5 if you want to avoid serious runout. Jun 7, 2009
I liked the crack to the right for the last pitch. It was fun. Apr 29, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
""Oddly enough there were no chalk marks anywhere.""
"That's the way we like it..."

Yeah, but too bad about the stupid (recent?) graffiti (a scrawled "NO!") at the start of the 5.8 finish. Bastages.

(FWIW, I guess I did the next crack to the right of the 5.8 finish, more like 5.8- over there, but fun too.) Apr 27, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
"Oddly enough there were no chalk marks anywhere."
That's the way we like it... Nov 12, 2008
aghetie
 
aghetie  
 
Did this route on Nov 4th, entirely in the shade. We used a 4.5 Camalot at the crux. Oddly enough there were no chalk marks anywhere. Route finding is obvious after the first pitch, tho. Well worth it, IMO. Nov 11, 2008
Ron Graham  
 
You might find it worthwhile to take a couple of #5 Camalots along to help protect yourself in the roof crack and in the slabby chimney leading up to it. Generally, this route eats up gear if you bring the right stuff. I highly recommend using a 70M rope to do the 3rd and 4th pitches as a single long pitch (it's such an easy and fun lead you don't want it to end!), but you'll need to bring along some extra long slings to help reduce rope drag. I did the route with two other guys and we found the belay stances to be quite comfortable for all of us at the transitions. This is a good multi-pitch route for a group of 3 or 4 climbers. Nov 11, 2008
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
I especially like this climb because there are zero bolts on it. The 5.8 variation finish is fun. Oct 5, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.7
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.7
Great route. Climbed this in four pitches with a 70-m with no problems at all. The 5.8 roof on the last pitch is a great finish. Descended the first gully (i.e., the northernmost gully) following cairns takes 30-40 min approx to get back to the base of the route, no raps, no down-climbing. Nov 27, 2006
It should be noted that instead of escaping on the last pitch by climbing up and left, there is an awesome 5.8 crack that continues straight up. Some of the holds feel a little shaky, but it goes and puts a little more icing on the cake than simply escaping.

Jason Nov 22, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.7
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.7
Quite possibly the best 5.7 at RR.

josh May 29, 2005
i walked right to the base of TV figuring id just move right to the pine tree and find the start of GT, but it wasnt so obvious to me. after a little bouncing around between possible alcoves with pine trees, i guess it is the first alcove past TV with a Big pine tree. I guess i should have scoped the route from the ground as reccomended.

A little easy simulclimbing links the first two pitches, as you can with p3/p4. The roof is fun, unless you have a pack on. The bushy ledges to belay below the roof (top of p4)- we belayed at the upper, lefter, bushy ledge, and had to traverse right to the crack off the belay. Should we have been at the lower ledge by the wide crack that becomes the roof weakness?

The 5.8 straight up variation is kind of sketchy. It looked like flour-y rock, with loose bits and pieces to stem off of. I pulled over anyway, but it's just a bit sketchy IMHO, compared to the relative solidity of the rest of the climb. Apr 21, 2004