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Hobbit Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Earth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mordor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serrated Edge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond and Gordon Webster, 1965
Page Views: 28,916 total · 203/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Edit]

Excellent rock, and varied climbing make this a nice casual outing. Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral. This dihedral is obvious when looking at the crag from the road as the crescent shaped crack splitting the dome, sort of right-center with a smooth-ish face to it's left.

Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.

Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.

Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.

Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.

Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.

Location [Edit]

Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral.

Protection [Edit]

Standard trad rack.
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A really fun route! Fantastic views! Sep 27, 2006
Chrystal Logan
  5.7 R
Chrystal Logan  
  5.7 R
Awesome views!! Beware of hornet nests located around the large boulders at the base of the dome! I was stung on 7/25/07 and it hurt like hell! Aug 3, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
A good way to do this route if you're confident on 5.7 terrain: Lead up the corner and build a belay right before the traverse left onto the golden plates. This requires maybe ~60' of simuling w/ a 60m rope. Then lead up the next pitch to the top, which requires maybe 70' of simuling. Aug 9, 2008
trying hard
Sierra East Side
  5.7+ R
trying hard   Sierra East Side
  5.7+ R
Very cool route to end the day on. I wouldn't be so into the hike if your a 5.10 climber. Climb OZ into hobbit book. If your 5.8 climber, the hike would be complimented by the epic view of Tenaya lake and half dome. Not to mention fairview, and Eichorn and pretty much everything else in the meadows!


Approach from OZ: walk off the top of OZ across a small flat area (excellent place to have a lunch!), up a mini talus field to the base of a 4th class traverse. The traverse is mellow, there is one spot that looks unsafe but is protected by holding onto a nice sized pine tree, follow a trenched out path to a large belay ledge.

P1. There are a few options, easy 4th class crack on left is good, committing face move to the right to get up to the belay for pitch one.

P2. nice crack dihedral climbing

P3. Really cool face that climbs on big jugs and nice lock offs.

P4. Traverse left on easy holds to the start of a short crack that leads to the top. Complimented by very nice face holds and feet for the crack. The face climbs great next to the crack and you can place sufficient bomber pieces in the crack as you go. Tops out to a large bath tub/ trench at the top you could easily sit in and belay your follower up.

Walk off the the left. Go off the back side of the dome and then head left where there is a option to go right down a gully or left. Head left! Then at the bottom of the back of the dome on your left in the pines is a very easy 4th class gully that walks down and connects into the OZ trail. Once you are off the slabs and back in front of the climbing area stay close to the base that heads towards oz to avoid quite a bit of bush whacking and marshy muddy areas. Aug 5, 2010
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Should be rated PG13, not R. On the third pitch, you can sling plates every 20ft after the bolt until you move back into the corner. All the climbing is secure and the patina is simply amazing! Jul 29, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The plate hauling on pitch 3 is fairly inflated at 5.7, but I suppose grades take a back seat to such an aesthetic section of climbing that just happens to have a 120' fall potential. I think I might actually been nervous if I'd been stopping to tie off plates, but to each their own. The gems of this climb is that 3rd pitch as well as the view at the top, so be sure to talk up the dangerous R section to your partner, wait for their face to turn ashen, and then graciously offer to lead it like the true rock martyr you are. Aug 3, 2011
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
I suppose one could sling a few plates on the third pitch, but it really didn't look to me like the slings would stay put unless you fell from exactly the right point. At any rate, the holds on this pitch are very, very positive, and the 5.7 rating is rather inflated, just like Colonel Mustard said.

I would call this an excellent easy adventure climb for anyone wanting a taste of that sort of thing. The approach is just long and involved enough to take this climb out of the "roadside crag" category, the views at the top are great, and the walk off is very pleasant. Do start early if you don't like waiting in line, though. Jul 31, 2013
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
I have heard there is a 5.8 route which can be climbed to get to this, avoiding the approach.. Is that true? Anyone know the climb? Aug 3, 2013
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Honestly, I haven't climbed it or done the approach so I don't know the relative benefit/risk associated with each option. FWIW, the person who told me about the so called 5.8 climb which circumvents the approach is hardly a reputable source. Aug 14, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
Simon, your friend was probably talking about Crystal Meth (5.8) or Euro Trash (10c or 5.8 A0) both on Drug Dome. Check out the Supertopo book for more beta. Aug 15, 2013
Willoughby
  5.7 R
Willoughby  
  5.7 R
People talk about Pitch 3 being reachy. I'm 5'8" and never felt it was a problem. I did manage to tie-off three plates along the way,using regular shoulder-length runners, but I'm not sure they would have done much. Nov 13, 2013
flynn  
The approach hike is just pure fun. At one point, you're crossing a meadow absolutely festooned with colorful little flowers. It could be in Rivendell.

Third pitch reachy? Um, I'm 5' 4" and didn't have any problems. Nov 15, 2013
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Thanks for the reply Todd. Finally did the climb via OZ and was not disappointed! Some friends have done Crystal Meth etc, and said they were alright, but OZ is something else. Highly recommend for those who are comfortable with the pro getting off the ground on that route.

Re: runout on the 3rd pitch of hobbit. Like everyone on here says the climbing isn't hard, but I would not recommend this for someone who hasn't climbed easy terrain with 20, 30, 40' runouts first. It's a long way to get back to the corner, so if you're not used to that, be warned. Didn't bother slinging plates and not sure slung plates would stay slung for long once you move above em. Wouldn't want to fall on one. Jul 10, 2014
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
5.7 PG13
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
5.7 PG13
We did the approach by climbing Crystal Meth, nice way to do it. I loved the 3rd pitch, but I thought it had a distinct 5.7 move to link the plates about half way up the pitch. The views from the summit might be the best in Tuolumne. Aug 2, 2015
Has anyone ever gone left, not straight up at the bolt? I did (accidentally) and ended up on some 5.8 R/X terrain. Out that way is a seam that has some marginal gear and some scary moves way above it. There's a thin crack above a small pod (takes BD Nuts 4-6) at the same height as the 3rd belay that I belayed from and from there we found some easy, well protected flakes back to the dihedral. I asked around the meadows, nobody had any knowledge of any climbing out that way. Aug 24, 2015
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
  5.7
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
  5.7
A great Tuolumne classic! The runout section had great holds and I never felt insecure. Instead of doing the longer approach, we decided to climb Crystal Meth on Drug Dome, which tops out just before the 4th class traverse to the start of Hobbit Book. Sep 8, 2015
Nicole Castonguay
Portland, OR
Nicole Castonguay   Portland, OR
The 3rd pitch run out: I slung a couple of the plates but I doubt they would have held if I'd fallen. I was able to shorten the distance of the run out (which SuperTopo calls 60ft and this site calls 100 ft) by staying toward the right. There are places up higher where you can move all the way to the right and place a piece in the "rarely climbed off-width" described in the SuperTopo book. Also, I'm 5'6" and didn't find it to be too reachy. Nonetheless, you'd better be very solid at the grade. Sep 23, 2015
As the founder of the original Rivendell Mountain Works, I found the approach to Hobbit Book utterly delightful and Tolkienesque! Pitch 3 was exquisite, but unfortunately, it was the last real climb I've been able to entice my wife into... Oct 17, 2015
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Loved the long approach! We climbed the rarely climbed off-width corner in lieu of the third pitch. very chossy with a difficult roof traverse. Would rather do the third pitch runout instead. Jun 27, 2016
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
As others have said, just gun it on the 3rd pitch runout. I tried to sling two patina flakes and was honestly better off just going for where the crack keeled back over for your first pro after the dearthy section. Placed two pieces of pro at either end of the runout (but it's a clean long fall anyway).

Climbed Europop to gain the ledge where Hobbit Book starts and spent four hours after sunset navigating down the gully on the backside in the first (frozen) snows of the season with one headlamp and only approach shoes. Left a sling and rapide link somewhere to the northwest of Mariolumne Dome after rapping to get ourselves out of that horrible descent... Dec 13, 2016
Frodeman
  5.7 PG13
Frodeman  
  5.7 PG13
The approach is pretty snowy, but the climb itself is totally dry as of July 18th. The summit is also clear of snow and the descent is fine. For the descent, basically take the path of least resistance donwhill on the east side of the dome (following the runoff). When you get into the trees, hug left around the talus and you should eventually hit the boulder field below Oz and Gram. Reverse approach from here. Jul 24, 2017
Are the belays bolted? Aug 23, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.7+ R
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.7+ R
Fantastic route! Finding the belay at the top of P1 was a little tricky but not bad. We also belayed at the comfy ledge below the top of P2 instead of below the overhanging wall. This made it a pleasant belay, and we still had plenty of rope for P3 (now more direct w/ less drag).
The classic P3 was incredible, such fun beautiful patina features. Definitely runout and deserves the R. I thought a couple spots felt a tad harder than 5.7 but there were lots of options and I may have just not taken the path of least resistance.
Belay at the top of the climb was a little awkward, I chose to belay right near the edge so I could hear my partner. There are probably options further up the dome summit.
Easy approach after climbing Oz. Approaching Mariolumne just for this climb does not seem worth the full talus/scramble approach to me. Sep 10, 2017

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