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Hobbit Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Earth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mordor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serrated Edge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Rich Doleman, Steve Williams 1971, FFA: Tom Higgins, Bob Kamps
Page Views: 1,914 total · 21/month
Shared By: john durr on Aug 26, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A very appropriately named route...burly adventure crack climbing. Four pitches up a long right facing dihedral. Excellent.

Pitch 1: Scramble up the orange lichen face 15' right of the broken dihedral with cracks and blocks 5.8. Join the dihedral and follow it past large blocks to the first roof. Hands and stemming out the roof 5.9. Up to the second roof good hands turns to flared hands (crux) for 15 feet till it eases and an obvious stance is reached. Gear belay small to 2" - 90 feet - 5.10a/b.

Pitch 2: Lieback the 3" crack until you can duck into a squeeze chimney with wedged blocks in the back. Jam out the twin hand cracks in the roof to it's right side. Boulder the hard hand crack roof and continue for 20' of easier hands to a small ledge. Take care to not allow the rope to get stuck in the roof. Gear belay large stoppers, 2"-3" nuts or Camalots used as nuts - 80 feet - 5.10b.

Pitch 3: Lieback and jam the wide crack off the belay for 30 feet to yet another roof 5.9. Climb the roof and follow moderate hand cracks to a nice stance in a shallow alcove. Gear belay thin to 2" - 100 feet - 5.9.

Pitch 4: Slightly loose with many ways to go. Jam and knobs up the crack above until it fades ~90 feet. Easy knobs left gain a short right facing corner with a loose flake. Lieback the flake up to a giant black knob 5.8 ~30 feet. Continue moderate cracks and knobs straight up to a tree covered ramp. Gear belay with many options - 200 feet - 5.8.

Pitch 5: Easy third class to the summit following the ramp up and right to near the top of Hobbit Book ~ 100 feet.

Location

Left side of the main Mariuolumne Dome's West Face, about 200 feet left of Hobbit Book is a large, right facing broken dihedral. The route follows this dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack, include 2 each: 2" to 3" cams, 1 each: 3-1/2" & 4" cam, and a few long slings. A 2-1/2" nut (hex) helps for the pitch 2 belay but isn't necessary. No bolts on this route. Follow the standard easy walk off the top to descend.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
This is a great add-on to Oz+Gram as it continues in a similar style of climbing (corner cracks and roofs). Loved it. Crux on P2 is pretty burly. Get on it!! Aug 12, 2017