Avg: 3.6 from 39 votes
Routes in Millbrook
|Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13|
|Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X|
|Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X|
|Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X|
|High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X|
|Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R|
|Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R|
|Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Harry Daley, Hans Kraus, 1962|
|Page Views:||7,717 total, 54/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 28, 2006|
Partially closed. Details
DescriptionWestward Ha! is definitely one of the best 7's at the Gunks.
The top of the route is quite close to end of the carriage road that ends on top of Millbrook. This spot can be located by a place where the trail leaves the cliff edge and ascends a short rocky band to the road. Instead of going up, follow a climber's trail (past an ominous "go away" sign) for a couple hundred feet.
Look for a rappel tree just down from the cliff edge. Rappel about 150' down to the ledge at the base of the route. You'll see everything as you come down. The obvious corner just right of the rap is most of it.
NB - the old rappel tree, which was almost directly over the route, died in 2013. Read older directions and comments with that in mind. The new rappel is a bit more to climbers' left.
P1: Climb through broken rock and a small overhang to a good ledge with a tree. This leads to a perfect corner system - lots of pro and exposure. A small belay ledge is found at the top. 5.7, 130'.
P2: The second pitch is short - up a face and short crack to the ledge with the rap tree. 5.7, 40'.