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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Donald Perry & Michael Burlingame August 1992
Page Views: 260 total · 17/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Partially closed. Details

Description

First pitch: Climb a vertical crack that runs on the right side of the scooped out corner. After reaching a stance where the crack turns dark climb left and onto bright orange rock around the corner. From here move up and exit off left and up directly after the first roof.

Var. 1 The Light, 5.12. FA: Frank Tkac & Don Perry, 1979. From here move up and right to turn the roof near its end. Start moving right again to grab the rock that we called The Tongue. Climb the overhanging vertical crack over the second roof to the end of The Fourth Belt.

Location

Below The Flake, on the only fourth band of rock down from the top where the rock is of high quality. This is on the left side of the cliff below and right of The Escape Hatch. This band of rock we called The Fourth Belt.

Look for a scooped out striped corner facing right 40' right of the start of this cliff.

Protection

small and very difficult

Photos

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donald perry
New Jersey
 
donald perry   New Jersey
 
The climb is more interesting through the variation in my option. Mar 3, 2017