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Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access
4th YDS 1 French 2 Ewbanks I UIAA 2 ZA M 1b British X
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Routes in Millbrook
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Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X |
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Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13 |
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Moonlander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Nectar Vector T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Old Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recollection (Direct Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Remembrance of Things Past T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Square Meal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Stardust Memories T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R |
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Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches |
| FA: | Donald Perry 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,489 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | donald perry on Oct 30, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
It is best to approach Millbrook from the north end of the cliff at least once in your life when you visit Millbrook. This way you can know how to climb out of Millbrook if you need to or want to, especially in some kind of emergency.
To get to the North end of the Grand Traverse Ledge starting from Trapps Bridge follow the carriage road along the back of the Near Trapps and find the Bayards Path which will lead you to the ridge between the Near Trapps and Bayards. Follow the Ridge Trail along the top of Bayards to climb Millbrook ridge. [As a side note, in the wet seasons there is a spring that runs over the trail at this point just before the Ridge Trail starts to ascend Millbrook Mountain. You can fill up your water bottles here.]
Climbing up in elevation abruptly you will eventually reach the edge of the actual cliff edge of Millbrook Mountain by means of a few camel backs. Part way to edge of the actual cliff you will meet a rock that is 5 foot high and 10 long where the trail goes around it on the right. I am going to call this rock the "GTL Stone", because it is very near the level of the Millbrook Grand Traverse Ledge. Keep this in mind as you pass this rock. After you pass this rock on the Ridge Trail continue up the hill until you go over a hump of rock. [To identify this hump of rock note that there is a 12' long crack that is 4" wide and 3' deep that runs a few feet left and parallel to the trail on the top of this outcrop of whitish conglomerate. ] From here the trail goes down and along level through trees for a few feet before a long smooth ridge of stone that ascends up to a block a few hundred feet away. [By the way, this stone ridge and this part of the trail now make the actual stone ridge, the edge of the Millbrook cliff. Do not climb this ridge.]
At the base of this stone ridge depart from the trail going left and parallel to the trail to then traverse along the cliff South East past some small caves to a finger of rock that points south opposite a very short smooth North facing corner. Start descending directly down from here and below this smooth corner facing North. You will pass a ledge of rock to the base of this short cliff to a sloping hill of leaves and trees, and underbrush. Believe it or not, you are now on the Grand Traverse Ledge in less than 5 minutes from the time you left the trail!
This access is mentioned in the Art Grand Guide, but it is not so well defined.
To get to the North end of the Grand Traverse Ledge starting from Trapps Bridge follow the carriage road along the back of the Near Trapps and find the Bayards Path which will lead you to the ridge between the Near Trapps and Bayards. Follow the Ridge Trail along the top of Bayards to climb Millbrook ridge. [As a side note, in the wet seasons there is a spring that runs over the trail at this point just before the Ridge Trail starts to ascend Millbrook Mountain. You can fill up your water bottles here.]
Climbing up in elevation abruptly you will eventually reach the edge of the actual cliff edge of Millbrook Mountain by means of a few camel backs. Part way to edge of the actual cliff you will meet a rock that is 5 foot high and 10 long where the trail goes around it on the right. I am going to call this rock the "GTL Stone", because it is very near the level of the Millbrook Grand Traverse Ledge. Keep this in mind as you pass this rock. After you pass this rock on the Ridge Trail continue up the hill until you go over a hump of rock. [To identify this hump of rock note that there is a 12' long crack that is 4" wide and 3' deep that runs a few feet left and parallel to the trail on the top of this outcrop of whitish conglomerate. ] From here the trail goes down and along level through trees for a few feet before a long smooth ridge of stone that ascends up to a block a few hundred feet away. [By the way, this stone ridge and this part of the trail now make the actual stone ridge, the edge of the Millbrook cliff. Do not climb this ridge.]
At the base of this stone ridge depart from the trail going left and parallel to the trail to then traverse along the cliff South East past some small caves to a finger of rock that points south opposite a very short smooth North facing corner. Start descending directly down from here and below this smooth corner facing North. You will pass a ledge of rock to the base of this short cliff to a sloping hill of leaves and trees, and underbrush. Believe it or not, you are now on the Grand Traverse Ledge in less than 5 minutes from the time you left the trail!
This access is mentioned in the Art Grand Guide, but it is not so well defined.
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