Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Donald Perry October 29th 2016
Page Views: 336 total · 12/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Partially closed. Details

Description

The climb is named after the giant block at the corner of the cliff: The stone which the builders refused has become the head stone of the corner (Psalm 118:22).

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney until you get to a ledge system just a few feet off the ground. Traverse right and up to and through the left facing corner next to the giant block. At the top of the block go far left to a hand crack and climb to the top of the crack. Expect a pile of dirt or mud there. You can go around the corner right to finish on The Detached Flake-Saucony.

Thirty years ago trying to exit out of Millbrook in the dark, I looked up at this climb and thought it might be a good way to get out. It is still a very scary climb today.

I recall Rich Romano telling me back in the 70s that he may have climbed up and out that way ... but he could not remember back then. So we are not sure if Romano has done this first solo or not.

Location

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney.

Protection

None getting to the block at the corner stone.

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