Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Donald Perry October 29th 2016|
|Page Views:||656 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||donald perry on Oct 30, 2016|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney until you get to a ledge system just a few feet off the ground. Traverse right and up to and through the left facing corner next to the giant block. At the top of the block go far left to a hand crack and climb to the top of the crack. Expect a pile of dirt or mud there. You can go around the corner right to finish on The Detached Flake-Saucony.
Thirty years ago trying to exit out of Millbrook in the dark, I looked up at this climb and thought it might be a good way to get out. It is still a very scary climb today.
I recall Rich Romano telling me back in the 70s that he may have climbed up and out that way ... but he could not remember back then. So we are not sure if Romano has done this first solo or not.