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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Donald Perry October 29th 2016
Page Views: 269 total, 20/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Partially closed. Details

Description

The climb is named after the giant block at the corner of the cliff: The stone which the builders refused has become the head stone of the corner (Psalm 118:22).

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney until you get to a ledge system just a few feet off the ground. Traverse right and up to and through the left facing corner next to the giant block. At the top of the block go far left to a hand crack and climb to the top of the crack. Expect a pile of dirt or mud there. You can go around the corner right to finish on The Detached Flake-Saucony.

Thirty years ago trying to exit out of Millbrook in the dark, I looked up at this climb and thought it might be a good way to get out. It is still a very scary climb today.

I recall Rich Romano telling me back in the 70s that he may have climbed up and out that way ... but he could not remember back then. So we are not sure if Romano has done this first solo or not.

Location

Climb up just right of The Ladder in the chimney.

Protection

None getting to the block at the corner stone.

Photos

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