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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Romano & Hardie Truesdale - 1980
Page Views: 1,968 total, 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 27, 2009 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Partially closed. Details

Description

No stars in the guidebooks? What an oversight... but perhaps understandable because of the first pitch. Begin at the right end of the section of wall that is home to Nectar Vector, Manifest Destiny, and New Frontier. A guide is essential for determining the location of the route, most easily identified by it's path through the roofs on the second pitch.

P1: It's hard to describe exactly where this one starts, but it generally weaves up and right through lichenous rock to a cruxy white corner, and then steps up and right again, past a small tree, to a belay on a pillar-like feature. This pitch protects with a #2 and #3 Camalot in a horizontal, but the white corner is 30' above this and unprotectable. A 60'+ fall onto ledgey rock is X in my book. 5.9, 120'.

P2: Hopefully your partner led that one so you get this one. Head up and left off the belay into the roofs. There's a hard move about 20' out pulling over the small roof, then good stances as the route underclings out left to a flake in the big roof. Pull through here with heel hooks and exposure. Above this step into a long, left-facing, left-leaning corner and take this to the rim. This corner is the easiest way to ID the climb from the ground.

Protection

Double set of cams in the finger sizes, single set up to #3 Camalot.

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