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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1968 Jim McCarthy & Burt Angrist
Page Views: 638 total · 13/month
Shared By: Michal Pasniewski on May 20, 2014 with updates
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details
Access Issue: Partially closed. Details

Description

P1: 100ft. Climb over humid moss to the small roof with the fixed tricam. Traverse easily rightwards under the roof (leave long slings to reduce drag). Go up aiming for the arching right-facing corner. climb up the corner. Move up the off-hands crack in the corner (great pro) then make cruxy moves left (#000) and up the beautiful face. Figure out how to get to the blocky roof, then pull the roof and enter the corner. Continue to the top, setup a directional cam, then hand traverse left to a belay tree.

P2: (~70ft) Move 40ft left (west) on the ledge, to the 2nd tree.

P3: Climb a dirty, tricky 5.7 ramp to the clean left--facing corner, which becomes quite vegetated at the top.

Location

Locate the Square Meal corner (near "Ecologically Sensitive Area" signs). Walk E along the cliff, over the huge roof, to a lowest tree which has another tree below. This allows a rappel with double 60m ropes. Traverse W along the "death" ledge to a tree located just under the cleft/chimney in the huge roof far above.

Protection

Fixed ancient tricam in the first small roof on P1. Double rack to BD #2. Double (maybe even triple) BD #.75 useful. Black C3 #000 useful to protect the crux. Blue/red/brown tricams useful in holes.

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