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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Donald Perry and Joshua Perry, December 16, 2016
Page Views: 371 total, 30/month
Shared By: donald perry on Dec 16, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Partially closed. Details

The Great White Throne Judgment of Rev. 20:11

Top Rope FA Joshua Perry, Donald Perry 12/11/2016
Lead FA Donald Perry, Joshua Perry 12/16/2016

Start: To the right of Again And Again at a ramp in the face with an overhang above.

Climb the ramp and go over the roof. Once over the roof, angle up and left into a right-leaning crack and flake system. When you pass below a notch between two small roofs, angle back right and go straight up through the notch just left of the "large loose flake" where the attempt by Romano concluded. Climb up to the "large loose flake" and go up and right a little, then straight up until you are on the same crack system as a giant upside-down flake on a ledge. Traverse right to a seam, then straight up to a ramp-block under roof. From under the great roofs, go through right-leaning crack over the first roof. At the great white roof, traverse left to layback flakes in the roof and go over the roof. Once over the roof, climb straight up on small holds to the ledge. Climb up the to top through a right-facing corner.

A word of caution: The blocks at the beginning of the climb, under the rotten roof, will come off if you yank on them; just leave them be. I would advise using a figure 8 and paying out some extra slack to control falls off the great roof, to keep the leader from swinging around and chopping his head on the edge of the ramp block.

Location

To the right of Again And Again at a ramp in the face and overhang above.

Protection

Small to medium size cams, nuts, tricams below and including pink.

Photos

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