Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Donald Perry and Joshua Perry, December 16, 2016|
|Page Views:||1,043 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||donald perry on Dec 16, 2016|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Lead FA Donald Perry, Joshua Perry 12/16/2016
Start: To the right of Again And Again at a ramp in the face with an overhang above.
Climb the ramp and go over the roof. Once over the roof, angle up and left into a right-leaning crack and flake system. When you pass below a notch between two small roofs, angle back right and go straight up through the notch just left of the "large loose flake" where the attempt by Romano concluded. Climb up to the "large loose flake" and go up and right a little, then straight up until you are on the same crack system as a giant upside-down flake on a ledge. Traverse right to a seam, then straight up to a ramp-block under roof. From under the great roofs, go through right-leaning crack over the first roof. At the great white roof, traverse left to layback flakes in the roof and go over the roof. Once over the roof, climb straight up on small holds to the ledge. Climb up the to top through a right-facing corner.
A word of caution: The blocks at the beginning of the climb, under the rotten roof, will come off if you yank on them; just leave them be. I would advise using a figure 8 and paying out some extra slack to control falls off the great roof, to keep the leader from swinging around and chopping his head on the edge of the ramp block.