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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Donald Perry October 29th 2016
Page Views: 352 total, 27/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Partially closed. Details

Description

Climb up and through the giant flake left of Saucony. Climb straight up to the giant right facing flake to ledge, go up right and then left to climb blocky corner to top, or just finish on Saucony which is surely 5.2.

The word Saucony comes from the Lenni Lenape Native American word “saconk,” meaning “where two rivers run together. If you want to get off Millbrook fast, then you climb together with Rich Romano and Russ Clune on their climb to get out.

As you start the climb there is a dirt ramp the runs just left of the climb up to the Beach. It maybe more desirable to hike up on the left and then traverse into this climb higher up. In the beginning of the climb the small lose rock on the climb is entirely avoidable but there are some big blocks down there that I climbed on or around.

Location

left of Saucony and right of The Block

Protection

none where it counts

Photos

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