Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 1
FA: Rich Romano & Hardie Truesdale - 1980
Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Seasonal Raptor closures
No stars in the guidebooks? What an oversight... but perhaps understandable because of the first pitch. Begin at the right end of the section of wall that is home to Nectar Vector, Manifest Destiny, and New Frontier. A guide is essential for determining the location of the route, most easily identified by it's path through the roofs on the second pitch.
P1: It's hard to describe exactly where this one starts, but it generally weaves up and right through lichenous rock to a cruxy white corner, and then steps up and right again, past a small tree, to a belay on a pillar-like feature. This pitch protects with a #2 and #3 Camalot in a horizontal, but the white corner is 30' above this and unprotectable. A 60'+ fall onto ledgey rock is X in my book. 5.9, 120'.
P2: Hopefully your partner led that one so you get this one. Head up and left off the belay into the roofs. There's a hard move about 20' out pulling over the small roof, then good stances as the route underclings out left to a flake in the big roof. Pull through here with heel hooks and exposure. Above this step into a long, left-facing, left-leaning corner and take this to the rim. This corner is the easiest way to ID the climb from the ground.
Double set of cams in the finger sizes, single set up to #3 Camalot.