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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Romano, Bea Haworth 1978
Page Views: 2,024 total, 37/month
Shared By: Carl A on Jun 2, 2013 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Partially closed. Details

Description

Start 30 feet right of Westward Ha! on discontinuous left-facing corners and cracks beneath two small roofs.

P1: Head up towards the crack in the middle part of the upper small roof, with a stemmy, technical crux over an old piece of tat. Traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner.

P2: Head up the corner through some foliage, and break left on to the face when you can, on face holds through a small roof on a bunch of semi-loose blocks.

The second pitch is 5.8ish and has killer exposure, the first pitch climbing is excellent and technical.

Location

Rappel left of Westward Ha! and go right a short bit along the death ledge.

Protection

Standard gunks rack is fine. I used doubles in larger finger size cams

Photos

rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
P1: Do not "traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner," you'd be missing an essential part of what makes the pitch great. The route steps left and goes directly over the roof. The climber in the photo is getting ready to do this.

And yes, very small cams (or ballnuts) can give you some higher protection as you begin the crux section below the roof. Whether protection obtained via very small cams should ever be called "G" is a matter of philosophy, but I'd say if you aren't prepared for PG don't go up there. (In fact, don't go to Millbrook at all!)

P2: From the belay, climb over a slightly jutting prow into a tight corner. Traverse left around the corner onto the face, climb up left and then back right to an initially hand-sized crack leading to the top. Jul 6, 2016
gtluke  
I was able to build a gear anchor at the topout of cruise control and rap in. At the bottom I had my buddy put me on belay from the top and pull me up. Improvised top rope but the climb is super straight and didn't require any directionals and was great to do it this way. Good way to get your beta if you are hesitant about leading this. Nov 3, 2014
2 #2 BDs are useful. Small cams (0, 00) make the 5.9 pitch G. Direct clean line, topout at the backpacks - 4 stars! May 12, 2014