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Routes in Millbrook

Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Donald Perry, no followers Mar 2, 2017
Page Views: 468 total · 28/month
Shared By: donald perry on Mar 2, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Partially closed. Details

Description

"Verily I say unto thee, To day shalt thou be with me in paradise." (Mark 15:32 and Luke 23:40-45)

Aid rating: No hooks, no pins, no bolts, only the use of a 10' pole.

1st Pitch: Climb the red rock into the red hand crack to a stance below a small lose block, and continue until you are under the overhang. Turn the roof (you can bypass the rotten hold over the lip that flexes like rubber by means of an undercling) and climb past a short left-facing block to a right-facing corner and two tri-cam placements in holes. Before the overhang, traverse low and left to two sharp right facing edges, to go up and circle clockwise around the forementioned overhang. From here circle counter-clockwise around the next overhang past a right-facing crack and corner. At the top of the corner keep circling around and then up a crack to traverse left onto a small ledge. Using two ropes for this pitch is the only reasonable way to deal with the protection. If you use a single rope it will zigzag, which means if you fall all the pro will all pop out.

2st Pitch: Climb around the loose block on the right (same as Great White Throne Judgment) and then climb up and left along its crack system until you reach the end. (The lose block has historical significance, so it has to stay there, do not touch it and it will stay there.) Then traverse left a little more to a pocket. From the pocket, traverse left again via two holds, then climb up to a second pocket in the horizontal. From here traverse directly right to a bucket and then climb straight up past a wobbly block sitting in the wall (the block is in a small ledge and will not come out unless you deliberately pull it out) to go over an overhang and up to a stance, with larger gear on right. It will be helpful to note that at the stance there is a very odd friend placement on the right that appears to be bomber for setting up the belay, but for some unknown reason that gear is always popping out, possibly because the crack is lined with shale which is as slippery as soap.

3rd Pitch: Directly above the 1.75 - 2.5" cam placement just right of the belay, stick-clip gear or replace the 1 - 1.5" cam in a pocket above with a 10' pole. The cam goes in deep, and more than halfway, when you find the pocket it will be obvious. (You can use a 10' x 1" piece of steel conduit you can buy at Home Depot, tape, and some string with a shoe lace knot to do this.) Do not be tempted to place gear in the slab. Do not weaken the slab by hanging on cams in the slab, this will more than double your weight on the slab, and if you fall then it will be more then double. Sound protection can be found in the corner where the slab meets the wall, in the wall, and in the aforementioned pocket above. The cam on the pole goes in the pocket easily. If you cannot figure this all out, or see the reason for keeping gear out of the slab, you do not belong on the climb because your efforts will set a pattern that will destroy the climb by weakening the slab. And if you risk or take a leader fall on it you have no good brain.

Climb up to the forementioned giant slab under the roof, and traverse out right, halfway to turn the roof to the aforementioned pocket. Turn the next part of the roof (reaching out and left) and then traverse left for 8' at the lip by heal hooking up to the horizontal cracks. Lean right and climb a short left-facing corner to a ramp at a hole in the rock, and up to the tree.

4th Pitch. Traverse right 23 feet and climb right-facing corners to a roof, and traverse around the roof on its right.

Location

Start 23' right of The Great White Judgment Throne at a left-facing corner and a hand crack above a bush.

Protection

Double Rope for first pitch.
Trango Ballnuts
2 sets of Tri Cams, red, pink, black, white
4 DMM Revolver locking Carabineers
10' pole, string, duct tape.
Hand tape for the crack.

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