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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,901 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Partially closed. Details

Description

High Plains Drifter is a great route, but like many climbs at the Bank, perhaps better suited to the seasoned Gunks climber or those that are just plain crazy. The pro is generally good, but it's never quite as bomber as you want it and never quite close enough to the hardest moves.

Begin well right of Westward Ha! at a stretch of wall that is bookended by two large corner systems -- the right corner forms the wall and arete of Nectar Vector.

P1: Ascend a weakness with good pro for about 30 feet before traversing up and right on good holds to the right end of a low roof. The climbing here has some fixed pro/tat but should be runnered well as this pitch wanders. Traverse back left underneath the low roof to a stance at the left end and load it up with well-runnered gear. The rock here is white and flakey and loose, but the gear is all you get until reaching the belay. Launch up over this roof onto the headwall above. The good holds are hard to leave behind, but some positive crimps on the headwall are just enough to make it passable. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay below the huge roof at the top of the wall. 5.10 R.

P2: Undercling out right around the big roof, then continue up to the top of the wall past its right end.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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Optimistic   New Paltz
 
We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came about 30 feet below the belay with a tricky 9/9+ sidepull over a bulge in the corner, and then working back right a little from there. Pro was pretty good for this move, and PG up to that point, but there is no pro above the bulge until the belay, 8ish, R/X. Belay at a large overhang capping the corner. I think White Rose goes straight over the roof here.

P2 (I think this matches Williams' book) We went right, following a well-protected, cool and exposed hand traverse directly under the overhang (7+?) to where a sort of shattered-looking flake leads over the roof (really just a bulge at that point) diagonaling right (9/9+). (it may be that we intercepted Josh's description above at this point, but I don't think so.) This turns out to be a really cool feature leading upward for maybe 30-40', the edge of the flake incredibly sharp. This sadly ends, and then you have to do a bit of weirdness stepping out right on some slopers and then back left into the base of a brushy corner and cramped belay.

P3 Step very awkwardly left around the corner, either under or over a little bush, and then head up into the short right-facing corner about 6' left of the brushy one you just departed. At the top of this grab a very scary-looking shattered horn and step around left onto the face above, 10a PG/R, climb up to another overlap and mantel, 9-, and the top. Liberal use of runners (or even double ropes) would be nice in the corner, the edge of which is razor sharp.

Gear up to a #3 camalot. The P2 hand traverse gobbles 1/2-1" gear, more hand size stuff for the layback flake above.

Great route, although pleased to have been following this one! May 31, 2014