Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,635 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 2, 2007|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Begin well right of Westward Ha! at a stretch of wall that is bookended by two large corner systems -- the right corner forms the wall and arete of Nectar Vector.
P1: Ascend a weakness with good pro for about 30 feet before traversing up and right on good holds to the right end of a low roof. The climbing here has some fixed pro/tat but should be runnered well as this pitch wanders. Traverse back left underneath the low roof to a stance at the left end and load it up with well-runnered gear. The rock here is white and flakey and loose, but the gear is all you get until reaching the belay. Launch up over this roof onto the headwall above. The good holds are hard to leave behind, but some positive crimps on the headwall are just enough to make it passable. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay below the huge roof at the top of the wall. 5.10 R.
P2: Undercling out right around the big roof, then continue up to the top of the wall past its right end.