Redirectionalism

Redirectionalism is a direct line over The Parousia, it was first done as an aid climb, and thereafter freed on lead.

P1, 5.9: Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a sickle ramp. Climb up the sickle ramp left to its top and a small ledge.

P2, 5.11: Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the sickle. Climb upwards and then left around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

P3, 5.12: At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof above.

P4, 5.12: Traverse left 6' just before the obvious break in the giant roof. Turn the roof through a hairline crack and small right facing corners that start 6' out over the overhang. Climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang and left a few feet until under another overhang just before the top.

P5, 5.11: Traverse left some more on good holds to a giant left facing outside corner facing New Frontier. Climb over the prow to the top.

The 1979 variations of the route are detailed below and accompanied by a photo within illustrating what I would call the progress of Redirectionalism.

The goal in developing and completing this route was to establish what I believed was the finest and most continuous line up Millbrook. The variations listed here illustrate the incremental advancements made over time. However, instead of following these intermediate variations, I recommend climbing the routes as initially established by Romano and Jack Meleski, which offer a more cohesive experience:

• Back to the Land Movement (5.11) on the far left
• Manifest Destiny (5.12) immediately to the left
• Land Grab (5.11) on the right

Each of these routes stands independently, with unique first and second pitches that preserve the integrity of their lines. Traversing into these features disrupts the natural flow of the climb, especially when the lower pitches allow each route to be completed as should have been originally intended. A Lesson in History (5.10 R) might be considered an exception to this approach—similar to CCK, which can also be climbed directly rather than traversing right into its overhangs. However, I would not recommend this style of climbing, as seen in Lesson in History, due to the zigzagging into the final pitch. This creates unnecessary complications such as rope drag, back climbing, or additional hanging belays. 

Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 

4 pitches

Description Concerning what is now part of the first pitch of the Land Garb roof and the final pitch of Back To The Land Movement.

Variation 2. At this point in the climb when we finished the fourth pitch we top-roped the tuning fork below, which is that block in the smaller roof below the larger Manifest Destiny roof.

Description Concerning What Are Now Parts of MANIFEST DESTINY. 

From the top of pitch 2, traverse up and left through  a crack in the roof around a giant triangular block with smooth polished cracks.  The name of this feature is called The Tuning Fork.  This roof is directly below the larger Manifest Destiny roof.  Climb up to the Manifest Destiny roof and traverse off right and up.

Start 45 right of New Frontier.

a lof of small stuff