Type: Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: August 2, 2011 Joshua Perry & Don Perry.
Page Views: 878 total · 34/month
Shared By: donald perry on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: Partially closed. Details

Description

Redirectionalism is a direct line over The Parousia, it was first done as an aid climb, and thereafter freed on lead.

P1, 5.9: Climb up past two separated right facing corners to an overhang. Traverse right under overhang to another right facing corner over the roof. Climb through this right facing corner to the base of a sickle ramp. Climb up the sickle ramp left to its top and a small ledge.

P2, 5.11: Traverse right a few feet and up to the roof at a notch directly over the sickle. Climb upwards and then left around the left side of a wide black streak into overhangs above and protection. Move back down to belay on a narrow ledge to the left.

P3, 5.12: At the overhangs, climb slight right over small roofs, then left around a large white bulge and up to roof. Under the roof traverse right pasting a small hole 5' to turn the immediate roof in the middle of the next roof above Climbing straight up to belay under the last roof above.

P4, 5.12: Traverse left 6' just before the obvious break in the giant roof. Turn the roof through a hairline crack and small right facing corners that start 6' out over the overhang. Climb up into short right facing corners in the overhang and left a few feet until under another overhang just before the top.

P5, 5.11: Traverse left some more on good holds to a giant left facing outside corner facing New Frontier. Climb over the prow to the top.

Location

Start 45 right of New Frontier.

Protection

a lof of small stuff

Photos

donald perry
New Jersey
  5.12d
donald perry   New Jersey
  5.12d
donald perry
New Jersey
  5.12d
donald perry   New Jersey
  5.12d