Type: Trad, 285 ft (86 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 41.70838, -74.22604
FA: FA: Bill Goldner, Paul Karmas, and Gerd Thuestad, 1962. FFA: John Stannard and Don Morton, 1968.
Page Views: 61 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Jun 30, 2025
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A fun adventure through consistently variable and interesting terrain. Sometimes the rock is dirty, lichen-covered, and chossy. Other times it's immaculate white quartz. Would be a classic if it were scrubbed.

P1 - Climb to a fixed piton at about 15'. Continue higher, navigating through lichen, broken rock, and some runouts to reach a shrubby ledge at the right side of the pinnacle. Climb the arete, making a few airy and well-protected moves to reach a comfortable ledge on top of the pinnacle. Belay off one of the two pine trees. (70', 5.6 R)

P2 - Climb just to the right of the pine trees and into a left-facing flake system. Make an easy foot traverse out right, and then crank through the overhang with a good finger lock (fixed blue DMM offset stopper). Traverse right about 45' through a band of beautiful white quartz, crossing over the route "Hang 'Em High", to reach another pine tree belay at the base of a large, left-facing corner. (115', 5.9)

P3 - Use the pine tree to get established in the shallow left-facing corner. A No. 3 camalot protects a pull onto a ledge using a spooky hollow block . Follow the corner cracks above, escaping left under several roofs. Move into the shrubby short chimney system before finally breaking right onto the face. Make some easy, well-protected moves to reach the summit. (100', 5.8 R)  

Location Suggest change

Directly under the impressive Hang 'Em High roof. Start about at the middle of the 70' tall rock pinnacle and 30' left of an oak tree, on a flat and somewhat narrow portion of the Death Ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to No. 3. A wire brush for cleaning off lichen would do a lot of good in a hurry

Photos

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