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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Donald Perry, 1/21/17
Page Views: 303 total, 29/month
Shared By: donald perry on Jan 15, 2017
Admins: JSH

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Description

Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars
FA: Donald Perry, November 2016 (TR)
FA: Donald Perry January 21st 2017 on lead no followers

Pitch 1: From the start of Remembrance of Things Past, climb up to right-facing corners 15' to the left. Follow the line of right-facing corners over a little roof. At the left-facing notch in the big roof, go up to the roof on the right to place protection. Climb back down a few feet, and then approach and turn the roof left the aforementioned notch. Climb straight up to the ledge and traverse right to the belay of Remembrance of Things Past.

Pitch 2: Traverse back left and climb up the right-facing corner capped by a roof. After some easy climbing, go up between two parallel right-leaning cracks to a large overhang. Go around the overhang on the left by means of a nice ledge, up to a nice face and a nice tree. Alternatively, you can go around on the right of the overhang, but it is not as fun.

Pitch 3: Climb over a pile of dirt with rocks in it to a deep inside corner made by a block on the right, to the top.

Warning: This climb involves commitment and has 4 runouts, each more committing and serious then the next. Do not underestimate the climb, it is complex. If you have not been climbing regularly for a long time it would be better that you toprope the climb and not attempt to lead it. You don't want to be taking falls on it for a number of reasons. By the time I finished this climb I was wearing a helmet. You have to take out all the bottom gear before you do the roof so you don't get flipped on your head from the rope running under you at an angle.

Location

Same start as Remembrance of Things Past, which turns the easy overhang close to the ledge and then goes right.

Protection

Standard rack plus:
Four 1 3/4 - 2 3/4 cams.
One 3/16-1/2 offset nut.
One 3 1/2 - 5 1/2 large cam.
Four 3/4-1" cams.
Two 1/2 nuts.
Two micro black tri-cams a size under pink.

Photos

donald perry
New Jersey
 
donald perry   New Jersey
 
Okay, I rated it "R", but it is "X" if you want to flash it where 5.12- is your limit, or you want to lower off the top nuts and take a chance on them pulling. Jan 24, 2017
donald perry
New Jersey
 
donald perry   New Jersey
 
I do not want to rate it PG-R-X because here all that depends on factors that have to do with the climber and not the climb. For me I would rate it G because I am very cautious as well as I am wearing a helmet. There is protection on it, but you have to know how to use it. Someone else might rate it X. I think I should let other people determine that rating. I think the skill of the climber will determine the grade here. Do you think that this is a satisfactory answer? Jan 23, 2017
JSH

JSH    
Don, given your 'commitment' comment, would you say an R rating is needed? Jan 23, 2017