Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Donald Perry, 1/21/17|
|Page Views:||763 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||donald perry on Jan 15, 2017|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
FA: Donald Perry, November 2016 (TR)
FA: Donald Perry January 21st 2017 on lead no followers
Pitch 1: From the start of Remembrance of Things Past, climb up to right-facing corners 15' to the left. Follow the line of right-facing corners over a little roof. At the left-facing notch in the big roof, go up to the roof on the right to place protection. Climb back down a few feet, and then approach and turn the roof left the aforementioned notch. Climb straight up to the ledge and traverse right to the belay of Remembrance of Things Past.
Pitch 2: Traverse back left and climb up the right-facing corner capped by a roof. After some easy climbing, go up between two parallel right-leaning cracks to a large overhang. Go around the overhang on the left by means of a nice ledge, up to a nice face and a nice tree. Alternatively, you can go around on the right of the overhang, but it is not as fun.
Pitch 3: Climb over a pile of dirt with rocks in it to a deep inside corner made by a block on the right, to the top.
Warning: This climb involves commitment and has 4 runouts, each more committing and serious then the next. Do not underestimate the climb, it is complex. If you have not been climbing regularly for a long time it would be better that you toprope the climb and not attempt to lead it. You don't want to be taking falls on it for a number of reasons. By the time I finished this climb I was wearing a helmet. You have to take out all the bottom gear before you do the roof so you don't get flipped on your head from the rope running under you at an angle.