Avg: 3.6 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Rich Romano and Morris Hershoff, 1980|
|Page Views:||1,882 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Jackson vermeulen on Oct 19, 2015|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb up the face trending left until you can find some protection. Continue up and left until you can hand traverse out left towards a large patch dark lichen with an abrupt vertical right edge. At the edge of the lichen, continue up a thin crack past an overhang. Continue up to a tree belay.
P2: Head up and right through a series a corners. Pull an overhang into a left-facing corner. Then head up and left to the top.
FA: Donald Perry 11/2/2016 (TR)
This route is directly in line with the crack of Nothing. Known up until this time as Time Eraser , Rich Romano & Morris Hershoff made a second ascent of our climb we called Nothing and named it Time Eraser, a name that ironically can have the same meaning. (At the time Dick Williams was not adding our climbs into his guide, thus the reason for the confusion.)
Start the climb. Climb over a tiny overhang then stay just left of the crack line (and at the same time further left of the left facing corner of the Time Eraser original start), climb directly to a stance at the base of the crack of Nothing. This is the direct and organic start to Nothing that follows the direction made by the crack line above (Var. 2).
Traverse right 10' and climb the orange blank face up under the right side of the overhang, all the while 10' to the right of Nothing. Under the overhang, traverse left a little and turn the overhang at the middle, and climb straight up through another crux to then connect back into the climb and crack of Nothing. Climb straight up in the crackline of Nothing to the top (Near the top Time Eraser deviates off right on a ledge and goes up into a different crack line).
Var. 2: Traverse right 20' and climb up to and right of the overhang and the ledge above on big holds, 5.9+.