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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Romano and Morris Hershoff, 1980
Page Views: 860 total, 33/month
Shared By: Jackson vermeulen on Oct 19, 2015
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Partially closed. Details

Description

A fantastic route with great climbing on a clean vertical face.

P1: Climb up the face trending left until you can find some protection. Continue up and left until you can hand traverse out left towards a large patch dark lichen with an abrupt vertical right edge. At the edge of the lichen, continue up a thin crack past an overhang. Continue up to a tree belay.

P2: Head up and right through a series a corners. Pull an overhang into a left-facing corner. Then head up and left to the top.

Location

Starts about 60 or 70 feet left of the Westward Ha rappel near a pine tree.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Protection is a little sparse at the beginning, but is well protected afterwards.

Var (TR) : Nothing Direct (Ecclesiastes 1:1) (5.11-)

TR, 1 pitch, 180'
FA: Donald Perry 11/2/2016 (TR)

This route is directly in line with the crack of Nothing. Known up until this time as Time Eraser , Rich Romano & Morris Hershoff made a second ascent of our climb we called Nothing and named it Time Eraser, a name that ironically can have the same meaning. (At the time Dick Williams was not adding our climbs into his guide, thus the reason for the confusion.)

Start the climb. Climb over a tiny overhang then stay just left of the crack line (and at the same time further left of the left facing corner of the Time Eraser original start), climb directly to a stance at the base of the crack of Nothing. This is the direct and organic start to Nothing that follows the direction made by the crack line above (Var. 2).

Traverse right 10' and climb the orange blank face up under the right side of the overhang, all the while 10' to the right of Nothing. Under the overhang, traverse left a little and turn the overhang at the middle, and climb straight up through another crux to then connect back into the climb and crack of Nothing. Climb straight up in the crackline of Nothing to the top (Near the top Time Eraser deviates off right on a ledge and goes up into a different crack line).

Var. 2: Traverse right 20' and climb up to and right of the overhang and the ledge above on big holds, 5.9+.

Photos

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donald perry
New Jersey
 
donald perry   New Jersey
 
The Time Eraser 5:10a had an earlier ascent done previously by Donald Perry and Michael Burlingame, 1978 now called "NOTHING" 5.9. Oct 30, 2016