Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 41.70838, -74.22604
FA: Jeff Gruenberg & Jack Mileski (1984)
Page Views: 819 total · 18/month
Shared By: bridge on Oct 29, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

An amazing piece of rock in a stunning position. Hats off to the pioneers Gruenberg and Mileski who thought this route would be possible. An improbable-looking traverse under a roof leads to a bouldery and distinctive crux facing a big, swinging fall. From here, there's glorious (but run out and cryptic) 5.11 arête climbing on beautiful orange rock. 

This pitch can be approached from The New Deal or accessed via rappel from directly above.

From the belay, tiptoe right across a relatively blank and unprotected slab, taking care not to factor two onto the anchor and aiming for juggier terrain above. Following the path of least resistance, climb straight through several tiers toward an overhanging notch and the obvious corner. Traverse left on pumpy terrain with pinches and slopers before facing a bouldery crux well out from your last piece of gear.

After launching to the jug, shake out, engage some gear wizardry, and calm your nerves before questing left onto the hanging orange arête. Eventually you'll find yourself sitting at one of the most majestic belays in all of the Shawangunks. 

Tradition holds that an ascent doesn't count unless you "test the pancake," feet dangling in Mike Freeman style.

Protection Suggest change

Standard gunks rack, possibly one or more fixed nuts in the roof. Long fall potential, but probably not overly dangerous/R-rated with the right tactics and gear.

Location Suggest change

Look for the giant left-facing corner that also houses Square Meal.

Photos

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