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Routes in Millbrook
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Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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Ad Infinitum T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Antichrist AKA The Son of Perdition; who opposeth and exalteth himself above all ..., The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A3+ R |
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Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X |
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Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Happiness is a 110 Degree Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jacob's Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13 |
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Lean Cuisine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Lighter Than Air T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Moonlander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Nectar Vector T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Old Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Parallax T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Past Recaptured, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recollection (Direct Finish) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Remembrance of Things Past T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Square Meal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Stardust Memories T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Swinging C T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Thou art a priest for ever after the order of Melchizedek T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A3- |
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Time Being T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Time Regained T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Voyage of Discovery, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wave Equations T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 41.70838, -74.22604 |
| FA: | Rich Romano and Russ Clune, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 510 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Po on Jul 21, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Hang 'Em High is an excellent roof climb that is well worth the effort! If it was in the Trapps it would be a mega classic. It consists of quality bouldering in the sky with a great backdrop of the Trapps and Skytop. I'm only describing the last pitch because the first is a total dirt mess. I would suggest rapping down to the obvious belay station about 50 feet below the lip of the giant roof. We used a .4, .5, and .75 for the belay however bigger cams would probably work as well.
From the belay station start climbing up on the right side of the black streak. Cross the black streak to the base of the roof. The climbing off the belay is secure 5.8ish with no gear. At the base of the roof a number 6 Camalot is the only protection available. From here make some solid 5.10R moves to get established in the roof. Pull some more big monkey jug moves to the meat of the climb. Build a mini anchor, and traverse slightly right on sloppery pinch like holds culminating in a blind throw to a sharp jug. There used to be a pin at this point but its gone now. Maybe it will be replaced? A crappy purple c3 might hold a fall here? That's it though. From here work your way through more 5.12 hero climbing to the summit.
2 Comments