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Routes in Millbrook

Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X
Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R
Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1964 Dick Williams, Art Gran, Jim McCarthy, and Hans Kraus (an all-star group!)
Page Views: 138 total · 34/month
Shared By: SethG on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: JSH

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Description

Realm of the Fifth Class Climber is one of the classic routes at Millbrook. It is generally reputed to be on the easier side of 5.9. I thought the crux second pitch had some solid 5.9 on it, but only for a few moves. The climb is highly worthwhile. Pitch one is good. Pitch two is excellent. Pitch three is adventurous and requires careful attention to avoid loose rock.

Pitch 1 (5.7), maybe 50-60 feet? Climb up a shallow right-facing corner to an alcove, where the corner increases in size and leans out over your head to the right. Belay in the alcove, or continue; the first two pitches can be easily combined. This first pitch is pleasant and mellow, and the rock isn't bad.

Pitch 2 (5.9), maybe 60-70 feet. The money pitch. Climb up the obvious corner above you. The crux comes quickly off the belay as you move up the leaning corner and escape to the right out from under what is effectively a ceiling. Once you move right and up on some thin moves, continue more easily up the corner to an obvious ledge. This is a very good pitch, with excellent rock and gear throughout.

Pitch 3 (5.9), again 60-70 feet. Make an awkward move to get up on a sloping shelf above the belay ledge (crux). Continue climbing up and left, easily skirting two roofs, and then up a left-facing corner to the top of the cliff. When I did this pitch (in 2014), I moved left to avoid the final corner because there was a large hornet's nest near the top-out. I climbed the right-facing corner twenty feet to the left of the regular top-out. This pitch is of lesser quality than the other two. After the initial move, the climbing is casual, but look out for some very loose plates on the face.

Location

You can rap in from where the trail meets the top of Millbrook (above Westward Ha!) and then walk along the "Death Ledge" to the south (climber's left), but I don't recommend it. Over by Westward Ha! the ledge is suitable for traversing, but the specific section just north of Realm is pretty bad: sloping, multi-tiered, and loose.

I would instead rap in from directly above Realm. If you walk atop Millbrook cliff, going south from where the trail meets the cliff top, you will exit the woods and come to an open slab. If you continue on the open slab you will soon see a notable wedge-shaped boulder on the edge of the cliff that Christian Fracchia told me is called the "Pie in the Sky." If you pass this feature you will soon be walking on scrub and not open slab so you will know you went too far.

From the Pie in the Sky, turn back around and retrace your steps north for a couple hundred feet and then rap in from a suitable tree on the edge. ****NOTE****: This is a full-length, single-strand, sixty meter rap. You should bring an extra rope and fix it for the rap. Watch the end on your way down! Then climb out on a different rope.

You might pick a tree that is directly over Realm. When I did it, I picked a tree that turned out to be at the top-out for a route called Stick It To Me Baby, which is just to the north/right of Realm.

As you rap, look up and search for a notable triangular roof at the top of the cliff. (See the beta photo.) This triangular roof is pretty much directly above the right-facing corner that is the start of Realm.

Protection

Good gear throughout.

Photos

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