Routes in Millbrook
|Ladder T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13|
|Abram Believed --- Innumerable Stars T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Access/Exit Chimney. T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X|
|Cruise Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Detached Flake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X|
|Great White Throne Judgment T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Headstone of the Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X|
|High Plains Drifter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|New Frontier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Northern Grand Traverse Ledge Access T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X|
|Nuclear Waste T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Parousia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Realm of the Fifth Class Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Redirectionalism T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R|
|Schlemiel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Time Being T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X|
|Time Eraser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Today you will be with me in Paradise T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A1 R|
|Toprope line: Bronze Serpent TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Toprope line: Worthy is the Lamb TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Toprope lines TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Westward Ha! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|GPS:||41.724, -74.206 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
Falcon Closure 2017All routes south of Westward Ha! at Millbrook are closed for peregrines.
Partially closed. Details
DescriptionDon't miss local climber Chris Fracchia's labor of love, Millbrook, where he provides excellent topos, photos, and select route descriptions. Props, Chris!
Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed. The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.
"The Bank" was the first cliff climbed in the Gunks, via "The Old Route," by Fritz Wiessner in 1935. It's rated 5.5 and I've heard it's pretty chossy, but Millbrook isn't for sissies after all. Other "must do's" include Westward Ha! (5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), Time Eraser (10a), High Plains Drifter (10+), New Frontier (11-), and Nectar Vector (12+), along with a few others that, by tradition, aren't talked about too often. This is also the tallest cliff in the Gunks, and most routes are 1 to 3 pitches in length.
One interesting point to consider is that the climbs are typically approached via double-rope raps from above. This will not take you to the bottom of the cliff, but will instead land you on a "GT Ledge" of sorts. This ledge ranges from 2-20' wide, and the climbs begin from this point. If you traverse the entire length of this ledge you can escape from either side, but the best way to escape from Millbrook is to climb out -- you should plan for this. There are several rap station access points, but historically the most commonly used one, and most centrally located, was above "Westward Ha!" from a very large pine tree. Unfortunately this tree has since died so you may wish to set up an alternate anchor. Westward Ha! (5.7) is well-protected, solid, and makes for a great cool-down climb at the end of the day to exit the cliff. An efficient solution is to fix a line from the top, and just return to it after each climb. That way, if worse comes to worst, you could jug that line at the end of the day.
Getting to Millbrook is tricky. You can begin from the 30-minute parking area just below the Near Trapps and follow the Ridge Trail all the way to the top of the cliff. There are also some other approaches which are faster, but require crossing private property or confusing route finding. It is highly advisable to make your first trip to Millbrook with someone who knows the way -- and who can find the rappel stations at the top of the cliff -- they are not immediately obvious.
Classic Climbing Routes at Millbrook
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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