|GPS:||41.708, -74.226 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
"The Bank" was the first cliff climbed in the Gunks, via "The Old Route," by Fritz Wiessner in 1935. It's rated 5.5 and I've heard it's pretty chossy, but Millbrook isn't for sissies after all. Other "must do's" include Westward Ha! (5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), Time Eraser (10a), High Plains Drifter (10+), New Frontier (11-), and Nectar Vector (12+), along with a few others that, by tradition, aren't talked about too often. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.
The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. One interesting point to consider is that the climbs are typically approached via double-rope raps from above. This will not take you to the bottom of the cliff, but will instead land you on a "GT Ledge" of sorts. This ledge ranges from 2-20' wide, and the climbs begin from this point. This ledge is very different from its extension across the Trapps; in Millbrook, it is often quite sloping and covered in loose pebbles - you generally cannot plan to walk on it. Also notable is that due to its "remote" location, rescue is much further away, and you may not be near other climbers. Due to lower traffic, you should be prepared to deal with loose rock.
Access: All of the cliff lies on private property. The Mohonk Preserve is the only entity that explicitly allows climbing, and they only own the top of the north half of Millbrook, but none of the cliff itself.
For more on Millbrook, don't miss local climber Christian Fracchia's site WhiteCliff, where he provides excellent topos, photos, and select route descriptions. Christian is one of the Millbrook locals who you might contact to show you around, in the old tradition.
Classic Climbing Routes at Millbrook
Days w Precip