Elevation: 1,435 ft
GPS: 41.708, -74.226 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,852 total · 285/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 with improvements by Kurtz and 1 other
Admins: JSH
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details
Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Details

Description

Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed.

"The Bank" was the first cliff climbed in the Gunks, via "The Old Route," by Fritz Wiessner in 1935. It's rated 5.5 and I've heard it's pretty chossy, but Millbrook isn't for sissies after all. Other "must do's" include Westward Ha! (5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), Time Eraser (10a), High Plains Drifter (10+), New Frontier (11-), and Nectar Vector (12+), along with a few others that, by tradition, aren't talked about too often. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.

The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. One interesting point to consider is that the climbs are typically approached via double-rope raps from above. This will not take you to the bottom of the cliff, but will instead land you on a "GT Ledge" of sorts. This ledge ranges from 2-20' wide, and the climbs begin from this point. This ledge is very different from its extension across the Trapps;  in Millbrook, it is often quite sloping and covered in loose pebbles - you generally cannot plan to walk on it. Also notable is that due to its "remote" location, rescue is much further away, and you may not be near other climbers. Due to lower traffic, you should be prepared to deal with loose rock.

Access:  All of the cliff lies on private property. The Mohonk Preserve is the only entity that explicitly allows climbing, and they only own the top of the north half of Millbrook, but none of the cliff itself.

For more on Millbrook, don't miss local climber Christian Fracchia's site WhiteCliff, where he provides excellent topos, photos, and select route descriptions. Christian is one of the Millbrook locals who you might contact to show you around, in the old tradition.

Getting There

The most straightforward way to Millbrook is to start from the West Trapps lot, and follow the Ridge Trail all the way to the top of the cliff. There are some other approaches which are faster, but require crossing private property or confusing route finding. It is highly advisable to make your first trip to Millbrook with someone who knows the way -- and who can find the rappel stations at the top of the cliff -- they are not immediately obvious.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Millbrook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Westward Ha!
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Cruise Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Realm of the Fifth Class Climber
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
The Time Eraser
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 3
High Plains Drifter
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Schlemiel
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Westward Ha!
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cruise Control
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Realm of the Fifth Class Cl…
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Time Eraser
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
High Plains Drifter
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches
Schlemiel
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Millbrook »

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