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Apr 22, 2026
The 1986 wedge bolt was replaced on 04/21/2026. View Comment
Oct 28, 2025
FWIW - we tied a cordelette around the P5 belay ledge bush, rapped back to the P4 belay with a 70m and cont… View Comment
Sep 11, 2025
I still think the best solution is to place a glue-in in the exact location of the now broken pin. The fact… View Comment
Jul 12, 2025
If you had excess friction during the pull, it would have been easier if you put the pull cord on the oppos… View Comment
May 18, 2025
Nick - right. They were added a week after that photo was taken in 2015. mountainproject.com/photo/1&helli… View Comment
Dec 9, 2024
Jeff G, The ACE website shows the tally of the online vote, but that is not the final result. The public co… View Comment
Aug 15, 2024
Han - it's tempting to walk climber's left too early. See this photo: mountainproject.com/photo/1&helli… View Comment
Jun 6, 2024
Grade A EldoFunk. Better than expected, but expect some lichen. The moves were about par with Werk Supp, wh… View Comment
May 29, 2024
#3 on P1 is gone. P4 appears to be clear as well. Perhaps the description should be changed to 'Handcrack3r… View Comment
May 4, 2024
The bolted anchor should be used for rappelling, but it needs slings when you set up a TR. The left hand ri… View Comment
Mar 12, 2024
The anchor is good - I replaced the lead bolts and one of the two anchor bolts in 2019 (I didn't have the r… View Comment
Dec 20, 2023
The previous location was quite low and only benefitted 5.8 Crack. The common practice for toprope setups w… View Comment
Dec 19, 2023
The anchor above 5.8 Crack was moved up and left today (per the ACE vote back in November of 2020). It shou… View Comment
Dec 19, 2023
That cam sleeps with the fishes: mountainproject.com/photo/1…. View Comment
Dec 7, 2023
The C'est la Vie pin sheared off, and the broken piece blocked the only location for a replacement. The sea… View Comment
May 22, 2023
Albert - there are no bolts there. It's not a popular choice to rap that dihedral, but the anchor is (was?)… View Comment
Sep 13, 2022
Rappel anchor note: the lower bolt hangers are rotated vertically in order to orient the ring for a smooth… View Comment
Sep 1, 2022
Jay 1975 - probably better to rap the route than to hike in from below. View Comment
Aug 29, 2022
Pros: ~40 kN shear strength bolt, redundant, single wear point for easy maintenance, minimum friction pull… View Comment
Jun 19, 2022
Samir - my new 'standard' way down is this: mountainproject.com/photo/1…. Getting to the saddle… View Comment
Nov 27, 2021
All 7 lead bolts (pitches 2 & 3 on D-G proper) have been upgraded to 1/2" stainless 5-piece. The P2 pin is… View Comment
Oct 5, 2021
I found an unobvious move that dropped about three letter grades. Fun route. View Comment
Sep 1, 2021
I posted some good anchor options in the photos above. I found 11 good gear/natural placements near the sta… View Comment
Sep 1, 2021
If the upper two placements are out of reach, remember that you are still on belay. You could clip in short… View Comment
Mar 10, 2021
Natalie M - removal of that tat is more likely than a bolted anchor there. There is no need for it. View Comment
Feb 1, 2021
The lead bolts are now glue-ins as of 01/31/21. The top anchors are now 5-piece, so no more hangers should… View Comment
Jan 29, 2021
If it had been slightly horizontal, it might have had a chance. Not sure that it’s worth pursuing a replace… View Comment
Sep 23, 2020
Yup. Recall hanger. View Comment
Aug 30, 2020
P3 - we climbed the twin cracks just to the right of the rappel station. The pitch gets a little spicy due… View Comment
Aug 18, 2020
[see updated descent beta in the main Sharkstooth description] Rap 1: rap from 2 bolts ~35m to grassy l… View Comment
Jul 14, 2020
Really want to go replace these. Also, I shudder at the thought of how much work it will be to hand drill s… View Comment
Jun 23, 2020
Lead bolts were replaced as of 06/23/2020. View Comment
Jun 23, 2020
All bolts were replaced as of 06/23/2020. View Comment
Oct 29, 2019
Route upgraded to stainless Wave bolts and Mussy hooks on 10/26/2019. View Comment
Oct 29, 2019
Route upgraded to stainless Wave bolts and Mussy hooks on 10/26/2019. View Comment
Oct 15, 2019
Funny. That pitch has more sketchiness to come, tho. View Comment
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