Type: Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 10,323 total · 69/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


104 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start up the perfect varnished face passing 4 bolts and belaying from bolts at the base of the obvious chimney, 5.8.

Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and follow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.

Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a

Pitch 4: Climb the short offwidth making face moves at its top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack (on the left), until you can traverse left to a seam in a varnished face (about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.

Pitch 5: Continue up the crack until you can step right to a 2-bolt belay at a stance. 5.8.

This route is VERY good, and should become a classic!

Descent:
From the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch, rappel back to the midway ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20ft right to another rap anchor. Next rap down into the chimney. You've now begun rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony", to an anchor on the right-hand wall. Continue rapping down to an anchor using 1 bolt and a thread. From this anchor rap to the ground ending right of where you started.
Rap using 2 ropes.

Location

Follow the main trail into Ice box canyon until it drops into the drainage. Go about 100ft up the drainage until you can cut up right(south) on small trails thru the brush. When you come to a rock wall(pedestal) traverse up and around left until you can scramble across a ledge at the top of the pedestal. Start off the right side of this ledge. You cannot see the first bolt until you are about 10 ft up.

Protection

SR to a #4 Camalot. Possibily extra #2 and #3.

Photos