La Cierta Edad
Avg: 2.9 from 78 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jorge and Joanne Urioste|
|Page Views:||8,997 total · 69/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Apr 11, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPitch 1: Start up the perfect varnished face passing 4 bolts and belaying from bolts at the base of the obvious chimney, 5.8.
Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and follow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a
Pitch 4: Climb the short offwidth making face moves at its top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack (on the left), until you can traverse left to a seam in a varnished face (about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.
Pitch 5: Continue up the crack until you can step right to a 2-bolt belay at a stance. 5.8.
This route is VERY good, and should become a classic!
From the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch, rappel back to the midway ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20ft right to another rap anchor. Next rap down into the chimney. You've now begun rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony", to an anchor on the right-hand wall. Continue rapping down to an anchor using 1 bolt and a thread. From this anchor rap to the ground ending right of where you started.
Rap using 2 ropes.