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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 326 total, 2/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an easy route that is good for beginners. It climbs a slabby face with cracks and a bolt.

Location

The start is the same as that of Jabba the Hut Levitates.

Protection

Standard East A rack.

Photos

eli poss
Durango, Co
 
eli poss   Durango, Co
 
I agree with Trevor, this bolt should be replaced. I would be willing pay for a Rawl bolt and hanger if someone with the proper equipment wants replace it. Perhaps the old bolt should be left, though, to preserve the history of the route. It's awesome to think that, even though we live in a such a small town separated from any of the major historic climbing areas (such as Boulder, Yosemite, Gunks, etc.), the history of climbing at East Animas goes back pretty far. The Star-drives scattered across the cliffs certainly speak to this history. May 6, 2016
TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
 
This route is really fun. The sparse pro really makes it interesting and thought provoking but in my humble opinion, this route would be much better off with a new bolt below the anchor. I lack any kind of technical knowledge to replace the bolt in question, but I am more than willing to help financially, or act as moral support in the replacement endeavour. Apr 7, 2016
We put a fatty 1/2" bolt on the anchor of this in the summer of 2011, since one was less than awesome. I guess we should have replaced the lead bolt while we were up there. Dec 8, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
This line is classic; thanks for replacing bad bolts. Nov 12, 2012
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
Would like to replace spinner bolt on this route...but don't WANT TO PISS OF THE hard people who call this zone home. Would like to do it sooner then later ... it's a great route an there is no need for a spinner on such a mellow route that new leaders might want to get on? Nothing but respect. DF Nov 11, 2012
Cool climb! Bring a red Alien for a pocket (about midway up) that protects the crux. May 5, 2012
Pro on this route is few and far between. The bolt at the top is loose and spins like a top. It's time for a new one. Also, one of the bolts for the anchor (the right one) is also loose and worn. Mar 21, 2011
Daniel E. Hopper
Hesperus
Daniel E. Hopper   Hesperus
Fun for beginners. I went WAY left to just play around then traversed over right. 5.5/6 Sketch little arete at the top. Amazing view! May 14, 2010