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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Marcus Garcia
Page Views: 166 total, 2/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Mar 26, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Don't let the length of this little hussy mislead you, it packs a punch (much like my ...). Very technical and bouldery climbing leads to a baller ender crux comprised of shit crimps and big moves!! If you wanna be a sissy (like me), you can TR before trying to lead it by lowering in from the long .10 to the left.

Location

This is the shorty just right of the long .10. This is the furthest right line on Jabba Buttress.

Protection

4 bolts with fixed anchors.

Photos

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I'd say the "shakeout" you mentioned is not necessary. I didn't even think that was on route. The hold which broke is the last small crimp before the final big move just below the anchor. Jan 21, 2015
Gave a burn on this rig yesterday. Can't decide if using the halfway shakeout to the left of the third bolt is contrived. It seems sort of necessary for the sequence to flow, and even if you opt to go straight up, through very sandy crimps, this hold becomes a foot. Which hold broke? Jan 20, 2015
Ben Kiessel  
 
A hold broke off of this a couple years ago. I have not been on it since the hold broke, but I would guess it's probably quite a little bit harder than it was before. Nov 18, 2012
Marcus garcia
Durango, Co.
Marcus garcia   Durango, Co.
This is still one of my favorite routes. A must for anyone looking for a hard, intense, foot work route. Jul 16, 2011
Erik Durgin  
 
Don't be a bunch of prudes, penis jokes are funny. Mar 28, 2011