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Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
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Bathing Beauty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Blue Light Special T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Breaking Ben S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Breaking Boundary S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Chickens in the Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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I Need a Batholith S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady of the Hour S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scantron S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unbreakable S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Patz |
| Page Views: | 375 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Patz on Aug 22, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a better and much more sustained way to access the Breaking Boundary extension. While less direct than the original Breaking Boundary, it eliminates a very good no-hands rest by staying on Breaking Ben for a little longer.
The breakdown is something like 13d/14a to gain the exit from Breaking Ben, V3/4 connecting sequence into a V6ish boulder, medium kneebar/jug rest, then V9ish technical boulder guarding the chains. Sustained beautiful movement on excellent quality, and very steep sandstone. The final boulder problem is in a uniquely exposed position.
Location
Climb almost all of Breaking Ben, and clip the last bolt. When this bolt is your belly, leave Breaking Ben by bouldering straight up to clip an independent bolt that protects the first crux of Breaking Boundary. Finish as per Breaking Boundary.
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