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The Love Movement
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 38
votes
Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
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Bathing Beauty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Blue Light Special T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Breaking Ben S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Breaking Boundary S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Chickens in the Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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I Need a Batholith S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady of the Hour S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scantron S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unbreakable S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,435 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Mehall on Jan 17, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a new 12 bolt sport route for the Jabba zone. Established during the non-winter of 2017-2018, this one took a lot of cleaning, but I think it shaped up nicely.
A shoulder length sling on the third bolt will greatly reduce your rope.
It seems like this will be one of those routes that gets change as the years go by and key holds break off.
We are currently working on a direct finish that will likely be a little more difficult. The Love Movement traverses left at the tenth bolt (with fixed draw).
UPDATE: Nolan Robertson got that done, and named it Scantron, rating it 5.13a
For those looking for an extra pump, The Love Movement can be combined with the second pitch of I Need a Shower for a "Love Shower".
The name The Love Movement is after A Tribe Called Quest album.
3 Comments