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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Breaking Ben (A.K.A. Doppelganger) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 428 total · 46/month
Shared By: Luke Mehall on Jan 17, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a new 12 bolt sport route for the Jabba zone. Established during the non-winter of 2017-2018, this one took a lot of cleaning, but I think it shaped up nicely.

A shoulder length sling on the third bolt will greatly reduce your rope.

It seems like this will be one of those routes that gets change as the years go by and key holds break off.

We are currently working on a direct finish that will likely be a little more difficult. The Love Movement traverses left at the tenth bolt (with fixed draw).

For those looking for an extra pump, The Love Movement can be combined with the second pitch of I Need a Shower for a "Love Shower".

The name The Love Movement is after A Tribe Called Quest album.

Location

This climb is right of I Need A Shower.

Protection

All bolts.

Photos

Nolan Robertson
  5.12a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12a
Great, great route! Great holds with some tricky, bad feet! Jan 31, 2018

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