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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 3.1 from 89 votes

Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,921 total, 35/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Climb the right-facing corner that starts with large huecos and goes past a small roof then continues to follow a finger crack in the corner to a bolted anchor at a ledge (5.7).

P2. Traverse a little right on the ledge and climb a short flake handcrack (5.7+). Finish at bolts.

Descent: from the top of P2, one single 60m rope will get you down. Or, continue on Steve Likes Offwidth.

Location

Continue past Jabba the Hut Levitates to a right-facing corner with a few bolted lines on the face to the right. This is the start of the route.

Protection

Standard East A rack - #2 Camalot.

Photos

TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
 
Anchor at the top of second pitch not looking very solid! One of the bolts is literally wiggling in its hole! And while the second bolt appears bomber the chain you rap off of is skinny and very rusty. I was not comfortable bringing my partner up until I had backed the whole system up with some gear. I will gladly buy some new hardware for this excellent pitch but lack the knowledge on how to set it up. Hit me up if you want to keep this route alive :) Jun 11, 2017
eli poss
Durango, Co
  5.7+
eli poss   Durango, Co
  5.7+
Careful when you pull your rope, this crack's a rope eater. I even placed a somewhat unnecessary #3 after the little roof before the lay-back section to redirect it out of the crack. Apr 11, 2015
Jason S.
Durango, Co
 
Jason S.   Durango, Co
 
The left (direct) start is also sweet and avoids the softer rock on the right. Sep 3, 2011
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.8
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.8
The second pitch is worth doing, if only once. I enjoyed the climbing there much more than on the first pitch, but it's just so short it's hardly worth the time. There are indeed anchors atop the second pitch and a 60m rope gets you to the ground -but just BARELY- Be sure you're middle is marked correctly! :) Apr 23, 2011
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
 
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
 
There is a block about 12' up that is getting loose. I saw a chalk X on it, but it is lower from the X as well. It's big. Apr 15, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
Before that, it was called Bush and Dirt Crack. Mar 12, 2011
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
 
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
 
According to Kozak's Southwest Rock, this route used to be called Pseudo-Cenotaph. Feb 22, 2011
Jeramiah Paylor
Westminster, CO
 
Jeramiah Paylor   Westminster, CO
 
This has a 2nd pitch that is 5.7+ and then a 3rd pitch of 5.9 off width. Sep 21, 2007