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Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
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Bathing Beauty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Blue Light Special T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Breaking Ben S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Breaking Boundary S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Chickens in the Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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I Need a Batholith S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady of the Hour S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scantron S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unbreakable S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Patz, 5/12/2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,421 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Patz on May 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Breaking Boundary is an extension to the fantastic Breaking Ben. It entails two technical boulder problems separated from the Breaking Ben crux by an insecure, no-hands stance. While the crux finish may at first seem contrived, the rock is excellent, and the exposure unbelievable. The boundary is the imaginary line that separates the impeccable headwall from the roof above. I recommend not bailing to the chossy roof holds, but if you do, be prepared to clean them yourself and to earn fewer points for the send.
Location
Start by climbing most of Breaking Ben. At the 7th of Breaking Ben’s eight bolts, mantel up to take on the steep prow above. Trend slightly right from the initial stance to follow four bolts through the steep prow. Finally, commit to the line of strength traversing left across the headwall to top out the left arête. Clip the anchors at your right hip or knee once you have gained the jugs around the corner.
Protection
12 bolts + an anchor (7 bolts of Breaking Ben lead to 5 additional bolts for Breaking Boundary) +/- optional gear for the initial slab leading to Breaking Ben.
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