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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,417 total, 10/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This is a pretty fun route that not many climb, since the start doesn't have much gear. Most traverse in from the right to keep the grade at 5.9. It is also possible to do a direct start that goes at 5.10+. Gain a left-facing crack that forms several small roofs and follow it to the top.

THERE IS A FIXED STATIC LINE IN THIS AREA THAT IS USED BY THE LOCAL SAR AND CLIMBING COMMUNITY. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE IT! IT IS EASILY FLICKED OUT OF THE WAY WHEN CLIMBING. THANKS.

Location

The route starts on the face left of Jabba the Hutt Levitates.

Protection

Standard East A rack & a couple drilled pins?

Photos

Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
The pins, in my opinion, are unnecessary (unless taking the direct start- that would be proud without the first pin). The traverse in from the right is hard off the deck but immediately eases. With modern gear this route is no worse than most other trad lines here. I found a small cam (000 TCU-ish) and nut placement below the second pin and other nut immediately after. With very modern gear, i.e. a hybrid Alien, blue-black or blue-yellow I'm guessing, you'd be golden. Dec 10, 2010
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
 
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
 
This really is a great line. Probably one of my favorites. Just because it has the pins doesn't mean you have to clip them. I suggest you don't for full value. Even though the protection up to the first book isn't great, a couple of nuts can still be placed. Have fun! Oct 23, 2010
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
Definitely not. I realize how that statement could be taken as hypocritical. The difference being the bolts placed by the first ascent party.Also, there is no "boldness factor" on the Contortionist.
See also: thread for Contortionist. Mar 31, 2010
-mn
-mn  
So why can't we keep the Contortionist as a bold testpiece for the grade? At least on that route there's natural gear. On 3 Open Books, before the pins were added, your first piece of pro was 25 ft. up in the first book! I believe these bolts are more warranted as long as they were placed by the f.a. party (probably not). Mar 31, 2010
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
This is an old route, done in the '70s, with the gear of that era, and without the fixed gear that has been added. It was an excellent testpiece for those seeking some boldness at that grade. Now someone has F'd it with some lame, drilled angles. Way to go, pus! Dec 3, 2009