For Better Or For Worse
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Matt King |
Page Views: | 1,683 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Matt King on May 4, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This has a hard start off the ground (11+) with very little feet! You might want to stick clip the first bolt. Clip first two bolts of existing 5.12 route that goes hard right after 2nd bolt, then go straight up and enjoy jugs once you get above your second bolt till you get to the 4th bolt. From here, it gets harder through the roof moves. I recently moved the upper lead bolt down and added another bolt above the previous last bolt. This protects the crux much better to the anchors. The crux is getting onto the bulge to your left and the final clipping hold of the anchors. The rock is super solid.
Location
This route starts on an existing 5.12 just to the left of "I Need A Shower". Stick with the bolt line that goes straight up from the second bolt.
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