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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matt King
Page Views: 394 total, 9/month
Shared By: OAW King on May 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This has a hard start off the ground (11+) with very little feet! You might want to stick clip the first bolt. Clip first two bolts of existing 5.12 route that goes hard right after 2nd bolt, then go straight up and enjoy jugs once you get above your second bolt till you get to the 4th bolt. From here, it gets harder through the roof moves. The crux is getting onto the bulge to your left and the final clipping hold of the anchors. The rock is super solid.

Location

This route starts on an existing 5.12 just to the left of "I Need A Shower". Stick with the bolt line that goes straight up from the second bolt.

Protection

8 bolts including anchors.

Photos

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