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Routes in Jabba Buttress

Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Blue Light Special T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doppelganger S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Better Or For Worse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
I Need a Batholith S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,018 total, 9/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is actually a third pitch to I Need A Shower or a second pitch for In Mesopotamia. Climb the obvious, wide crack with many face holds leading up and right.

Location

Start atop the second pitch of I Need A Shower.

Protection

Standard East A rack + big gear.

Photos

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S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
 
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
 
You can also link this from the OW crack south of In Mesopotamia. Then you don't need bring gear much smaller than #2 up the wall. Mar 31, 2013
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Hmmmm. Interesting.

I took a #5 & #6 BD C4, #4 Big Bro (blue), and some stoppers. Two #6s would be fine instead of the Big Bro. Maybe an extra #5 if you've got it.

Bring some gear to build an anchor at the top, as there are no bolts. I used a #1 & #4 BD C4 and some stoppers.

To get down, walk climbers' left to a set of bolts with thin cord and 2 oval screwlinks. Rap to the top of I Need A Shower, then once more to the ground. Dec 4, 2012
Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
Heinous. Steve Likes Squeeze Chimney That Tapers to #6 OffWidth. I probably should have treated it more like a face climb instead of trying to use only OW technique.

I got some real tasty humble pie on this one.... Apr 2, 2010