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Chickens in the Shower
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
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Bathing Beauty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Eat Yo Wheaties S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Blue Light Special T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Breaking Ben S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Breaking Boundary S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Chickens in the Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dune S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Face To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Better Or For Worse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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I Need a Batholith S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In Mesopotamia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lady of the Hour S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Love Movement, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Odale'! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Offwidth Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scantron S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steve Likes Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Open Books T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Unbreakable S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 542 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Apr 20, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Pitch 1: climb “I Need A Shower” to the bolted anchor. 5.8, 80’.
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral for 30’ to a crux just before another 2 bolt anchor. 5.9. (pitch 1 and 2 can be linked)
Pitch 3: continue straight up the corner/chimney above. Many face holds will help get you through when the crack gets thin or awkward. Eventually the crack seams out. Stem and face climb past two bolts to easier terrain above. Belay off the big pine tree up and right, 5.8+, 60’.
Descent: the top two bolt chain anchor of “Bathing Beauty” is out on a point below the big tree. Two single rope rappels put you on the ground.
Note: although undocumented, this route has surely been climbed in the past, but now it’s got two bolts, so hopefully the 5.9 trad leader won’t be freaking out.
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