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Northeast Face R of Warrior I
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 46
votes
Routes in Warrior 1
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Candy Shop, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Face, Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Northeast Face R of Warrior I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrior 1.1 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, John Rupley 1962 |
| Page Views: | 11,731 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Dulberger on Aug 13, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Route Description
This is a bit of an adventure climb, I will describe it as best I recall, but we certainly followed our noses a bit.
Once in the Warrior I basin (a bit to the north/left of the peak), we scrambled up the grassy ledges rightward. Eventually, we were cliffed out and roped up:
P1 & P2: Follow chossy ramp system angling up and right (5.5ish maybe). We did this in 2 pitches, with a bit of simulclimbing, to a large ledge.
P3: The wall becomes more imposing and the route is not obvious here. The route is supposed to "use thin holds for 30 ft, then cross a slab to the left and climb a crack..." I climbed straight up into a dirty unprotected flake system (scary 10 and my second ripped off a nub and fell here), then traversed right on decent holds . There seemed to be other variations, either left or right of that line, presumably they are safer and a lot easier. There is an obvious niche about 120 ft up, that I did find without trouble.
P4. Out of the niche there are two obvious cracks, we went for the right of them, which wound up being wide and strenuous (9+). At the top, there was a good belay.
P5. The next pitch went up corner crack of a large block, to a nice landing area, which is tempting to belay on - but better to push on and extend the pitch, gaining the summit of the smaller pillar.
P6. The "solitary crack in the headwall" - this is the pitch you can fight over. 100 ft of 2 - 3" crack to a slab, at the top of which you can belay.
P7. We exited right, which was an awkward escape from the slab followed by a short step down, then 25 ft of ow/chimney. Then to the summit...
Descent was straight-forward, rapping down (2 ropes) to the climbers-left of the route.
Once in the Warrior I basin (a bit to the north/left of the peak), we scrambled up the grassy ledges rightward. Eventually, we were cliffed out and roped up:
P1 & P2: Follow chossy ramp system angling up and right (5.5ish maybe). We did this in 2 pitches, with a bit of simulclimbing, to a large ledge.
P3: The wall becomes more imposing and the route is not obvious here. The route is supposed to "use thin holds for 30 ft, then cross a slab to the left and climb a crack..." I climbed straight up into a dirty unprotected flake system (scary 10 and my second ripped off a nub and fell here), then traversed right on decent holds . There seemed to be other variations, either left or right of that line, presumably they are safer and a lot easier. There is an obvious niche about 120 ft up, that I did find without trouble.
P4. Out of the niche there are two obvious cracks, we went for the right of them, which wound up being wide and strenuous (9+). At the top, there was a good belay.
P5. The next pitch went up corner crack of a large block, to a nice landing area, which is tempting to belay on - but better to push on and extend the pitch, gaining the summit of the smaller pillar.
P6. The "solitary crack in the headwall" - this is the pitch you can fight over. 100 ft of 2 - 3" crack to a slab, at the top of which you can belay.
P7. We exited right, which was an awkward escape from the slab followed by a short step down, then 25 ft of ow/chimney. Then to the summit...
Descent was straight-forward, rapping down (2 ropes) to the climbers-left of the route.
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