Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dan Godshall and Scott Sinor- August 2017
Page Views: 1,162 total · 177/month
Shared By: 303scott on Jun 4, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route has five pitches of excellent climbing in the .10+ to .11 range. Because if its position, it dries out very early in the spring (typically by the time the road opens). However, thunderstorm activity significantly impacts the route, and unless you are down for some wetness, I would avoid it after the monsoon starts (typically early July through mid-August). It gets full sun in the mornings. Also, it is a much longer day than your typical Black Wall route - expect a full day of climbing.

Pitch 1(.9). If climbing from the ground (not recommended), then climb forgettable terrain up to the notch. Then climb the slightly vegetated crack splitting the face into and up a grassy corner. Move right into another crack up to the belay you just rappelled from. This pitch is a bit grassy but ok if you want a warm-up before the harder climbing. Many parties will be happier starting the route from the start of pitch 2.

Pitch 2 (11-). Climb the fantastic finger crack until it ends. Climb 15 feet of grassy corner, and move out onto the face via an obvious traverse. That is the only time you should be in the grassy corner on this pitch. Climb up and right 20 feet on cracks and step right to a good stance with a first bolt. Climb the twin seams, and place gear when you can in the right one, and then clip a second bolt. At the third bolt step right into tufa features. At the fourth (fifth?) bolt, climb the left arête near the bolt, and then generally go straight up and right on the path of least resistance ultimately going about 10 feet right just before you reach the belay. Arrive at the belay with the two widely spaced bolts. Build an anchor with small gear in a crack in the wall, and back it up with the top bolt to one of your ropes.

Pitch 3 (10+). Traverse straight right off the belay 10 feet to a corner. Move up 20 feet, and take a nice dihedral with a handcrack at the back for another 15-20 feet. Climb a detached, but apparently stable, flake that is about 8 inches wide, and move all the way right into the corner. Climb that corner for 15-20 feet. If you are comfortable, do NOT place gear in the corner, it will create bad rope drag. There is a bolt about 15 feet above the 8 inch flake on the face that will drastically reduce rope drag (use a double length runner). With the bolt just below your feet, traverse straight LEFT around the arête. Look up and slightly left, and identify a bolt line (3 total bolts) in a white, right-facing dihedral. Move left and up through less-than-perfect rock. Find a bolt on the right side under the hanging roof and clip. Pull up into the dihedral, place gear, clip a first bolt, clip a second bolt, traverse straight left along easy terrain for 10 feet, and set a belay at the base of the White Corner.

Pitch 4, The White Corner (.11), possibly the crux pitch. It is short but full value the whole way. Climb the corner until it ends, maybe 60 feet. Traverse straight right on a big ledge, past the rappel anchors, step up under a hanging flake, and traverse as far right as possible. Build a belay in the obvious crack.

Pitch 5 (.11), the other possible crux pitch. This is sometimes a little damp for a few feet at the start, but it is definitely still climbable. Climb the finger/hand crack straight up, solve a V1 boulder problem, and clip a bolt. Move straight left 15 feet on a ledge to gain a new crack, move up 20 feet to a horizontal crack, and traverse back right all the way to the arête on decent hands and dwindling feet. It has an exciting finish gaining the arête. There is one bolt with a small piece nearby at a stance on the arête to build an anchor. Place gear for your second in the crack four feet to the left of the anchor, and back up your anchor there, too.

Pitch 6 (.10+). Climb the crack on the left side of the arête past a bolt. Climb up some blocky terrain, and clip a second bolt. Work right out to the arête, clip a third bolt- step out over the void, and climb up to a broken/rotten band and ledge. Climb slightly right of the arête (3-5 feet) up a weakness for 15 feet or so, and then move back left to a bolt. Climb a sick flake up to a bolted belay on a huge ledge.

Pitch 7 (.8). Climb up and slightly right of the arête (within about 2-10 feet at almost all times). When that path ends, move right on a big ledge to a wideish but easy corner, and climb straight up to top out.

Location

Double ropes are mandatory for the rappels and helpful on some of the pitches.

The first rap is found skier’s right of the standard Black Wall (e.g. Good Evans) rappels about 150 meters - it is the farthest east point of the prow. The anchors are located on the tip of the arête). We usually put a piece in a rock about 20 feet away for the first person to use the rope as a backup to get to the anchor, and then have the second back clean the piece and get belayed to the anchor (or some variation on that theme). Hang packs off of the anchor - marmots are voracious here.

First rap - 100 feet. Stay slightly (like 5 feet) climber’s left of the arête throughout the rappel, and rap down to a big, clean ledge on the edge of the arête with a cordalette anchor on it. This is a rope stretcher for a single 60m, so watch your ends.

Second rap - 180 feet.  Rap slightly climber’s left to a good ledge with a two-bolt anchor and chains. This is a good place to stash water.

Third rap - 180 feet. Rap down over the abyss. Try and stay climber’s left by rapping the left side of the roof just before you go free hanging, but you can go straight and you will ultimately touch land again...the anchor you are heading for is about 50 feet climber’s left of where you first touch land again and is a cordalette with two strangely spaced bolts (there were reasons for this). Do NOT go to the anchor directly below you in the big corner with bright orange cord - that was from the first reconnaissance of the wall, is at the very end of the ropes (hanging on the knots), and goes to nowhere.

Fourth rap - 180 feet. Rap almost straight down, slightly climber’s left to a good two-bolt anchor with carabiners on it at the base of an amazing crack.

Fifth rap - 140 feet. Rap down climber’s left to a “notch” where an obvious crack begins or rap to the ground if the snow isn’t too bad and/or you want a ground-up ascent. If you stop at the notch, build a somewhat uncomfortable anchor in the slightly vegetated crack.

Protection

Doubles from tips to #3, one #4, a set of stoppers, and maybe 4 quickdraws. All bolts were hand drilled. All 5-piece are plated, and all stud are stainless.
303scott
  5.11
303scott  
  5.11
This route is an excellent early alpine season objective - it is completely dry right now. On the third rap, the bolts are very weirdly and inconveniently placed. This is because the rock above the top bolt vibrated when hammered (note the abandoned hole), and we didn't want to put the anchor too far right because of the roofs below. There is doubtless a better solution, but I am tired of hand drilling for now.

Also, there are likely parts of this that have been climbed before, notably some part of the second to last pitch may be part of Roofer Madness, but we aren't sure where that route goes.

Finally, there are a couple of bolts that have been added that are not reflected on the beta photo. Jun 4, 2018
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11
Thanks for the great route, Scott and Dan! Putting up a route like this takes a ton of time, and your work is greatly appreciated.

We were surprised how long it took us to climb this route. Between the 5 raps and the wandering nature of the climbing, we topped out much later than anticipated. With the exception of a few sections on the 3rd pitch, the route climbs on excellent rock. Pitches 4, 5, and 6 are outstanding! The description posted here is spot on, but I will note that we were happy to belay at the bolted anchor at the end of pitch 4. If you do this, you'll want to move the belay 15 ft right to the fixed nut anchor before starting the 5th pitch. Also, we started on the 2nd pitch. The climbing below this pitch didn't look great, and the second pitch was just begging to be climbed.

We climbed the route on a single rope and trailed a tag line, but I could see doubles being nice on pitches 3 and 5. Jun 4, 2018
303scott
  5.11
303scott  
  5.11
Nice photos, Dave, thanks! We spent the entire day Saturday cleaning pitch 3, and it cleaned up surprisingly well. No more tiptoeing through a garden of loose blocks. Thanks for taking a run up it in its "pre-release" condition! Jun 4, 2018
I think it would be OK to leave the #4 at home. We didn't place it until the end of pitch 6 at which point the difficulty drops substantially. This route will be great with more traffic - pitches 3-6 are nice and physical. There are still a lot of crumbles and some lichen. Pitch 3 is the only one that really requires care on the rope drag front. We felt that P5 was the crux. Thanks for all the work, Scott and Dan. The description is pretty spot on. Aug 11, 2018