Elevation: 11,711 ft
GPS: 40.28, -105.673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 132,261 total · 581/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

By now, this spire has become one of the most sought-after alpine route in the country, and along with the Casual Route is likely one of the two most popular routes in RMNP. It is a great idea to have a plan B if you intend to climb this. There are numerous alternatives in the area.

The climbing is excellent on the standard route, and the summit is one of the most spectacular in the Park, or anywhere. 

Getting There

Park at the Glacier Gorge Junction Trailhead (a mile below Bear Lake), and hike five miles or so to Sky Pond (above Loch Vale).

Scramble up talus above Sky Pond to the Petit, which offers a steadily narrowing South Face and is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth to the West and flanked by the Saber on the East.

Possible Descents

Andrews Glacier trail descent: per Paul Huebner: we did short rap down the back on the east side and traversed over to other spire behind it. Then we scrambled up to our left/west through chimney that opens up onto large ledge/ramp leading down to the base and back side of that spire. From there, we descended gentle snow field down to talus and continued on down the Andrews Glacier Trail (approach for Sharkstooth) to Loch Vale and on down to Glacier Gorge Parking lot.

Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all

1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 ft.
2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 ft
3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. Addendum: it's exposed clipping the anchor.
4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' ft.
5. A 200+' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. Addendum: you may not reach this anchor, but there is a slung boulder at ~165' to make a short additional rap.
6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Petit Grepon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 500
South Face
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 93
Southwest Corner
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Face
 500
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Southwest Corner
 93
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
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