Petit Grepon Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 11,711 ft |
GPS: | 40.28, -105.673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 118,314 total · 536/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Getting weather forecast...
Seasonal Closures March 1-July 31. Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures occur in March and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Description
By now, this spire has perhaps the most popular alpine climb in the country. DO NOT--repeat, DO NOT do this climb on a weekend.
It has excellent climbing to an unimaginable summit. If crowded, there are many alternatives.
It has excellent climbing to an unimaginable summit. If crowded, there are many alternatives.
Getting There
Park at the Glacier Gorge Junction Trailhead (a mile below Bear Lake), and hike five miles or so to Sky Pond (above Loch Vale).
Scramble up talus above Sky Pond to the Petit, which offers a steadily narrowing South Face and is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth to the West and flanked by the Saber on the East.
Scramble up talus above Sky Pond to the Petit, which offers a steadily narrowing South Face and is overshadowed by the Sharkstooth to the West and flanked by the Saber on the East.
Possible Descents
Andrews Glacier trail descent: per Paul Huebner: we did short rap down the back on the east side and traversed over to other spire behind it. Then we scrambled up to our left/west through chimney that opens up onto large ledge/ramp leading down to the base and back side of that spire. From there, we descended gentle snow field down to talus and continued on down the Andrews Glacier Trail (approach for Sharkstooth) to Loch Vale and on down to Glacier Gorge Parking lot.
Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all
1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 ft.
2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 ft
3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. Addendum: it's exposed clipping the anchor.
4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' ft.
5. A 200+' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. Addendum: you may not reach this anchor, but there is a slung boulder at ~165' to make a short additional rap.
6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.
Rap descent - per James Beissel: - All of the rap stations are bolted. If you are rapping off anything besides bolt you are screwing up.- You will need two 60m ropes- All of the raps are double rope rappels- Do not try to rap into the gully!!!- You should not have to downclimb at all
1. Rap from a Fixe anchor at the (climber's) right end of the summit. ~160 ft.
2. Rap from two Fixe ring anchors just past the terrace to a pair of Metolius rap bolts. ~160 ft
3. Rap from the fatty Metolius bolts to the big grassy ledge. ~160 ft. The next set of bolts are about 50' to your left at eye level, above a chimney of sorts. Addendum: it's exposed clipping the anchor.
4. Rap from the anchor over the void (homemade hanger + modern Fixe ring bolt). Pass up the grassy ledge (Second Terrace) at about 160ft. and aim for the big horn about 20' below you. There's probably slings around the horn. They'll help you spot the station, but you will actually be rapping from bolts below the horn. ~180' ft.
5. A 200+' rap to a big grassy ledge (First Terrace). The next bolts will be about 50' climber's right. Addendum: you may not reach this anchor, but there is a slung boulder at ~165' to make a short additional rap.
6. Another 200' rap to the ground off two Fixe ring bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Petit Grepon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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Photos
24 Comments
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Guidebooks (11)
Estes Park
pagosa spgs, colorado
Snow on the hike up is in grape shape, possible in boot's without snowshoes. You may desire crampons or an ice axe. Enjoy the early spring! Mar 26, 2007
Mumbai, India
Portage, WI
Loveland, CO
Boulder
The climb was equally beautiful. You can reach the 1st Bench with a 60 meter, and, if you belay higher up in the chimney (25 ft, +or-) for the 2nd pitch, you can string 2 and 3 together, giving the leader an interesting chimney/5.7 crack to reach the second bench.
After the next chimney pitch, The climb goes vertical, beginning the real deal. Stellar climbing! Up higher, I don't know what the Gillett guide meant by 'sparse pro' on the upper 5.7 'meandering' east face pitch; I found plenty. The Pizza pan ledge at the end of that pitch reminded me of the Yellow Spur's arete belay. Very cool! Get comfy.
The final 5.6 summit pitch needs attention, as there really ISN'T good pro for THAT one. It's all there, however, and the summit is amazing! If the weather's holding, definitely spend a little alone time up there before pulling up the slack.
On the descent, watch for ropes sticking on the upper rappels. Also, rock fall is very possible (probable?), so be cautious. But that's all part of climbing, so really doesn't merit mentioning, generally. Whatever. ENJOY IT! Jul 10, 2010
Worcester, Massachusetts
We climbed the Petit (south face) on 9/5 and had amazing weather and, even better, the whole route to ourselves all day! Sep 6, 2012
United States
Louisville, Colorado
From the summit of the Petit, rappel 100' to the north and scramble down the very narrow ridge to the base of the south face of the Penknife. One moderate pitch with a 5.6 move or two gets you to the summit of the Penknife. Rappel to the north from slings to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Saber. Hike and scramble north down the Gash to the Andrews Glacier trail. Jul 21, 2014
Big South Fork, TN
Fort collins
Seattle, Wa
Longmont, CO
Home is where you park it
Golden, CO
ALTERNATE DESCENT BETA:
We did a similar descent as Mark and Paul describe, except we did a very necessary second rappel that I'm not quite sure how you would avoid. For the first rap, aim for a pinkish, broken, sidewalk-looking ledge below with visible tat anchor just past it. Scrambling over to those and getting the rope pulled is exciting. Be careful. The tat anchor for the second rap is currently a little old looking but seemed solid enough. We backed it up for the first. A second rappel gets you down to a cool spot with 2 corner lines that you could potentially use to escape. We climbed the left side, 50' or so up a chimney/corner. There were a few easier 5.moves culminating in an easy squeeze chimney that will probably require you to take your pack off. We didn't rope up, but some people will probably prefer to. From here, it opened up into another little, rocky alpine field and, eventually, a saddle and a drop down to the north for a long time. Snow conditions will probably vary greatly from here. We traversed a scary but super solid, 80 degree snow slope then hiked down boulderfields and glissaded amazing snow fields for hundreds of feet, eventually making it back down to the Andrews Glacier trail. I'm not really sure of the difference in time, but this way seemed pretty fast compared to the traditional alternative. Definitely more adventurous! Jul 3, 2017
Littleton, CO
If, in the next few days, someone is willing to carry out that rope and return it, we'd be very grateful, and would gladly give you $70 for your trouble! It's a 70m 9.5mm orange Petzl rope.
Also, if you don't want to pack it out, but could drop it onto the ground could you please let me know? In that case, I'm guessing something would chew it up, but I'd still hike out to pack out the trash. Or, if you notice it's gone completely, it'd be great if you could let me know so that I don't waste a hike out trying to pack out the trash.
Thanks! Jun 11, 2018