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Routes in Petit Grepon

Neathawk-Collett T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Southwest Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft
FA: Christopher D. Jones, Keith Brown, 2013
Page Views: 2,036 total · 46/month
Shared By: Chris Jones on Jun 4, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Follow the the South Face pitches until you reach the pitch 7 belay. On pitch 7, traverse right of the South Face route for 25 feet along a 3 feet wide ledge (top of a deep flake system) until you reach a right-facing dihedral full of several small rusty fixed wires where other climbers have retreated. Follow the fixed wires straight up in the shallow, right-facing dihedral for 15 feet, then launch straight up for 150 feet of committed nightmare climbing. Survive it with psychological gear with most of it unable to sustain a rest. After continuing straight up from the dihedral system, face climb on run out terrain and enter the final crux on a tweaker, layback arete reaching to sloping holds just below the belay ledge of pitch 8 where the climb rejoins the South Face route. This was an accidental onsight. The crux popped ligaments in three fingers while wearing a full pack and nearly caused a 180 foot + fall onto a ledge, hence the name.

Location

Follow the red line in the attached route photo.

Protection

Small wires/brass RPs, medium to small TCUs, and lots of long runners.

Photos

Chris Jones  
 
Call me out when you do it. Aug 15, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
Pretty sure he's just calling you out for a superfluous minor variation of a very popular route. Chances are, you are not the first to wander off route through this particular section. Jul 16, 2015
Chris Jones  
 
Post some photos, and I'll let you know if we did the same variation. My partner has it on his helmet cam. I will try to get this posted later. If this was your comment, I question whether we did the same pitch. If 5.10 sport is your limit, I am certain. Jul 15, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Pretty sure I got off route on the Petit too. Don't think it was worthy of a whole new route though. Jul 14, 2015