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Routes in Petit Grepon

Neathawk-Collett T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Southwest Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Perhaps J. Neathawk, B. Collett, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 1,349 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Sep 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is really a direct start to the SW Corner, but it makes that route feel a lot more entertaining.

1) Climb a steep crack for about 20 feet to a white piece of tat on a ledge. Move left about ten feet to some steep flakes and follow the slightly overhung wall above to a series of left angling ramps that one follows until one can step left to below the obvious corner on the 2nd pitch. 160 feet, 5.10- R.

2) Follow the corner with a nice fingers to offwidth crack until it ends. Then follow easier terrain to a large ledge near the SW arete of the Petit. 120 feet, 5.10-.

3) Follow the arete and corner systems just to the right to a ledge below the groove feature on the arete. 200 feet, 5.7.

From here, three more pitches take you to the top by way of the SW Corner route.


Identify the very prominent, right-facing dihedral in the gully leading between the Petit Grepon and Sharkstooth that is the Davis-Fowler. About a hundred and fifty feet up, there is a smaller, right-facing dihedral. This is the second pitch of the route. Start about 100 feet down and to the right of the Davis Fowler, below a large boulder.


Standard rack to #4 Camalot.



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