Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||Mike Morin on Oct 12, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
The traditional and mixed lines are different than many traditional areas along the Front Range, with incipient cracks and interesting features making up the majority of the protection opportunities. A keen eye is important when venturing up many of the lines, with the lack of obvious pro often times adding to the excitement of the lines here.
From Denver, travel south on US Hwy. 285 to Shaffer's Crossing and exit onto Elk Creek Rd.. Head north on Elk Creek Rd. until you come to the park entrance on the right. As of 2022, there are a two main choices for parking:
1) The original Meadow Lot near the park entrance is best for accessing crags on the east side of the park (Dines, Raven, etc).
2) The new Lazy V lot located near the intersection of the Old Mill trail and Staunton Ranch trail provides the best access for crags on the west side of the park (Staunton Rocks, Sawmill, etc.). The Lazy V lot has limited spaces so show up early or plan to hike/bike in from the Meadow Lot.
Please refer to the park map for directions to these lots: https://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/Staunton/Documents/StauntonTrailsMap.pdf
Per Mich: beware of speed traps: Morrison drops the speed limit to 45 on US Hwy 285 then lines up squad cars to issue tickets.
Fixed Hardware Restrictions
Route developers wishing to install fixed hardware will be required to submit an application to a fixed hardware review committee made up of local volunteers.
Online Fixed Hardware Application
Please respect this process. New routes are going to be a welcome addition at Staunton, but skirting this requirement will only erode the positive relationship that has been established between the climbing community and park management.
In November 2011, volunteers were brought in to assess the climbing potential at the park and assist with developing climbing management plans. In June 2011, park management asked for help assembling a group of route developers to establish lines in the area known as Staunton Rocks. These volunteers worked to establish fun and interesting climbing routes on six formations in the Staunton Rocks area. Even with many routes already established across this area, great opportunities exist for exploration and establishment of new lines at Staunton Rocks and throughout the park.
Check out the parks website here: Staunton State Park
The old Fixed Pin Publishing online guidebook is still available through their website for $2, but it's quite outdated.
Download it here:
Rock Climbing Staunton State Park.
Leaving after closing time will get you a $50/person fine here...and a misdemeanor for your record.
Falcon Nesting Closures
There are falcon nesting closures in the park. These are set from February 1 to August 1 for specific crags. See the access issues above.
Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton State Park
Days w Precip