Elevation: 8,319 ft
GPS: 39.49971, -105.37917
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 989,413 total · 7,883/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Oct 12, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Sitting in the foothills S.W. of Denver, Staunton State Park provides those looking for a little bit of adventure with great climbing opportunities on interesting, featured rock. The majority of the lines at Staunton are either purely sport or mixed lines, however there are is also a good collection of more adventurous trad routes rounding out the mix.

The traditional and mixed lines are different than many traditional areas along the Front Range, with incipient cracks and interesting features making up the majority of the protection opportunities. A keen eye is important when venturing up many of the lines, with the lack of obvious pro often times adding to the excitement of the lines here.

Getting There

From Denver, travel south on US Hwy. 285 to Shaffer's Crossing and exit onto Elk Creek Rd.. Head north on Elk Creek Rd. until you come to the park entrance on the right.  As of 2022, there are a two main choices for parking:  

1) The original Meadow Lot near the park entrance is best for accessing crags on the east side of the park (Dines, Raven, etc).  

2) The new Lazy V lot located near the intersection of the Old Mill trail and Staunton Ranch trail provides the best access for crags on the west side of the park (Staunton Rocks, Sawmill, etc.).  The Lazy V lot has limited spaces so show up early or plan to hike/bike in from the Meadow Lot.

Please refer to the park map for directions to these lots: https://cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/Staunton/Documents/StauntonTrailsMap.pdf

Per Mich: beware of speed traps: Morrison drops the speed limit to 45 on US Hwy 285 then lines up squad cars to issue tickets.

Fixed Hardware Restrictions

Due to Staunton being a State Park, there are fixed hardware restrictions in place.

Route developers wishing to install fixed hardware will be required to submit an application to a fixed hardware review committee made up of local volunteers.

Online Fixed Hardware Application

Please respect this process. New routes are going to be a welcome addition at Staunton, but skirting this requirement will only erode the positive relationship that has been established between the climbing community and park management.

Background

Much of the land that makes up Staunton State Park was giving to the State of Colorado in 1986 by Francis Staunton. In subsequent years, the State of Colorado purchased two other parcels to complete what is now slated to be Colorado's 42nd State Park, opening in May 2013.

In November 2011, volunteers were brought in to assess the climbing potential at the park and assist with developing climbing management plans. In June 2011, park management asked for help assembling a group of route developers to establish lines in the area known as Staunton Rocks. These volunteers worked to establish fun and interesting climbing routes on six formations in the Staunton Rocks area. Even with many routes already established across this area, great opportunities exist for exploration and establishment of new lines at Staunton Rocks and throughout the park.

Check out the parks website here: Staunton State Park

Online Guidebook

The most up to date comprehensive guide is available through Rakkup.  This guide includes all of the previous info from the old Fixed Pin guide as well as the newer routes.   To download the guide, you first need to download the free Rakkup app on to your phone/tablet.  Then you can either purchase the Staunton guide in the in the app, or purchase it on Rakkup's website:
https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/staunton-state-park-rock-climbing

The old Fixed Pin Publishing  online guidebook is still available through their website for $2, but it's quite outdated.

Download it here:
Rock Climbing Staunton State Park.

Park hours

Per Staunton Park Ranger: In short, our goal is to protect the park from the people and the people from the park. In order to do this, we have set daily hours unlike other parks, and when people do not make it out of the park on time, we have to determine whether we are dealing with a possible emergency. Daily hours are posted on the main entry gate and on the pass booth; the park is closed to the public at all other times.

Leaving after closing time will get you a $50/person fine here...and a misdemeanor for your record.

Falcon Nesting Closures

There are falcon nesting closures in the park. These are set from February 1 to August 1 for specific crags. See the access issues above.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Ice Climbing

Click here for ice climbs in Staunton SP.

415 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Playing in the Updraft
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 84
Restaurant At The End Of The Uni…
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 355
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 211
Unshackled
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 119
Implements of Destruction
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 280
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 113
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 192
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 164
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 199
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 63
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 73
Daedalus
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 104
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 66
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 82
If and Only If
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Playing in the Updraft Raven
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Restaurant At The End Of Th… Staunton Rocks > Pooka > 3. Astronomy Wall
 84
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reef On It! Staunton Rocks > … > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 355
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unshackled Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 211
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Implements of Destruction Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 119
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Staunton Rocks > … > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 280
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Staunton Rocks > … > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 113
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Staunton Rocks > … > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 192
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 164
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 199
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 63
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Daedalus Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 73
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Branching Out Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 104
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Intolerance Test Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 66
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If Staunton Rocks > Dungeon
 82
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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