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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Young, 3/13
Page Views: 3,171 total · 47/month
Shared By: Monty on May 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is probably my favorite route in the Dungeon. The pump is arm-numbing and the features are wild! While the crux is low, I have seen many of strong climbers punt at the last bolt. Manage yer pump!

Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, then follow a few more bolts up the overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left into the chimney and finish.

Cleaning Beta:
Don’t try to play chicken with a tree... the tree will most likely win. Tram in cleaning all your gear/draws. When you get to your last piece above bolt 3, clean it but stay trammed in. Have your belayer lower you out depositing you safely on the ground.

Location

This route is the lowest of the steep routes in the Dungeon. It is located just downhill of Soaked in Sin.

Protection

9 bolts, single rack cams from 0.4 - #2.

Photos

Pinklebear  
 
Kinda spicy to lead from the ground, especially getting to the last bolt with some hidden gear right before it. Possible Spoiler Alert, so don't read on if you're going for the super-pür onsight, but I think having some gear beta (or another bolt or two?) will make this a more manageable lead.

Good stopper above bolt three, kinda punchy above bolt four up to where, from the rounded jug up and left, I placed two Metolius #3 (orange) TCUs, bomber #2 Camalot in the base of the steep crack, #1 Camalot above it if you want, fixed nut (seems to be in place for lowering and cleaning) that you can back up with another medium nut at the top of the crack.

Hand-traverse left and make committing 5.11- moves up into the bulges, then bomber Metolius #0 and #1 TCUs in a small hidden horizontal by the initially freaky-looking (but solid) jug block, then up on good holds to the last bolt (pumpy).

Good stuff, but gear is inobvious coming from the ground. Bring your A Game! Jul 7, 2013
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing! Aug 26, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12
This route now has 9 bolts (used to have 5), so don't be scared by the above comments. Some gear is still needed between the 3rd and 4th bolt (large nut or .75 BD) as well as for the steep crack toward the top which takes anything from nuts to a #2. The route is much safer and more enjoyable now. Apr 10, 2016

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