Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | D. Montgomery & J. Young, 3/13 |
Page Views: | 6,666 total · 51/month |
Shared By: | Monty on May 26, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is probably my favorite route in the Dungeon. The pump is arm-numbing and the features are wild! While the crux is low, I have seen many of strong climbers punt at the last bolt. Manage yer pump!
Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, then follow a few more bolts up the overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left into the chimney and finish.
Cleaning Beta:
Don’t try to play chicken with a tree... the tree will most likely win. Clip your rope into one of the permadraws to avoid swinging into the trees while cleaning your gear.
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