All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area

Roughneck Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Roughneck Area

Main Wall 12 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Ramp Area 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Shadetree Ledge 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

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Elevation:	9,383 ft	2,860 m
GPS:	39.5225, -105.39054 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,670 total · 114/month
Shared By:	Monty on May 19, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

The Roughneck area sits high above Staunton Rocks near the old dilapidated saw mill. For organizational purposes this large wall was been broken up into several sub areas.

Seasonally Closed 3/15-7/31 for nesting raptors.

Getting There

From the trailhead, take the Staunton Ranch Trail for approximately 1.5 miles until you come to a junction with the Old Mill Trail. Turn right here and follow this trail for 0.9 miles. Once at the old dilapidated mill, follow the trail around the mill until there is another trail junction. Turn left on the Borderline trail then right immediately after the bunkhouse. Follow the climbers trail past the Sawmill Crag to the Roughneck Area.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Roughneck Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Shadetree Mechanic Trad Shadetree Ledge
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 4 ● Chicken Little Trad 2 pitches Shadetree Ledge
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Yardbird Sport Shadetree Ledge
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 6 ● Grease Monkey Trad Shadetree Ledge
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 21 ● Thread the Needle Sport 2 pitches Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 5 ● Exfoliation Station Trad 4 pitches Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 20 ● Ruffian Arete Sport Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Chop Suey Slab Sport Main Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 9 ● Iliad Trad Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● Tool Pusher Sport Main Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 8 ● Rig Builder Sport Main Wall