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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dave Montgomery & Craig Faulhaber, 6/17
Page Views: 2,573 total · 169/month
Shared By: Monty on Jun 23, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

If and Only If (iff) is a burly little number that climbs out the steepest part of the Dungeon. Climb steep corner-like features to a two bolt long crux sequence that culminates with a heartbreaking move to a thank God jug. Hold on through easier but pumpy terrain to the chains.

This is a pretty special route for me as it is one of my hardest redpoints, and I got it 2.5 months after my first child was born. Summon your inner Dad strength, and enjoy!

Location

It is between Zed's Dead and Tanuki in the center of the steep wall.

Protection

11 bolts and a kneebar pad or two.

Note: the first 7 bolts have permadraws, so you only need 4 draws. The first several draws were heinous to clean!

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13-
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13-
I'm guessing the grade will settle around 13b, but the pumpy nature of the climbing makes it hard to grade. I was able to do all of the moves on the first day, but it took a long time for me build up the fitness necessary to put it all together. Jun 23, 2017
Craig Faulhaber
  5.13b
Craig Faulhaber  
  5.13b
The overhanging crux with many sidepull options is a bit reminiscent of s00pr kr33m in the Flatirons, but this is more difficult and sustained in my opinion. Go do it!

Fantastic climb, thanks for all of the bolts and belays, Dave! Jun 29, 2017
Alex A  
Congratulations the FA, I think I heard you YELL, with JOY, the day you sent it. Jul 5, 2017
The crux is around 13c. The rest of the route is 12d. Split the difference, and give yourself 13b for the send. This is an amazing area, sure to become popular when people figure out what's up. Aug 27, 2017
Jcburgart
  5.13b
Jcburgart  
  5.13b
What a stellar line with varied movement and holds! Full body trickery clears you through the crux with thoughtful, fun climbing before and after. Great eye, Dave! Jul 9, 2018
Josh Gross
  5.13b
Josh Gross  
  5.13b
Surprisingly pumpy route, the redpoint crux is a sleeper. Great route! Aug 16, 2018

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